Show Ring Ready

A shameless plea for votes

2012-02-12T18:05:00.000-05:00

While you wait for a new blog post (getting some Turnout Critique photos in my inbox might help with that ;) ), how about helping me win a lovely new fly bonnet from Sanswill Designs? All you have to do is "like" this video on Facebook:

http://www.facebook.com/SanswillDesigns/posts/370431469650867

While you're at it you can "like" Sanswill Designs, too, because she makes great fly bonnets and has incredible customer service, AND she runs a lot of these types of contests for people who "like" her page.

Turnout Critique #1

2012-01-21T23:03:00.000-05:00

This is the very first instalment of our new Turnout Critique feature! In Turnout Critique, I'll present one or more photos sent to me by readers and give constructive criticism on the turnout to help point out ways in which the turnout could be improved or better flatter the horse.

Today we have three photos that were submitted by a reader. I've decided to use all three of them because I think that there is something to be learned from all of them.

Our first photo shows very good turnout for a hunter schooling show:

While I always prefer a braided mane, this horse's mane is evenly pulled to be about four inches long and is lying nicely on the horse's neck. It is not messy and won't detract from the horse's performance.

The clouds aren't allowing us to see this horse's shine, but I suspect that he would in the sun because he looks to be in very good condition and has the deep colour of a well-groomed horse. His socks are clean and his hooves are nicely oiled. His tail has been brushed out and is free of any bits of hay or shavings. You can also see that his legs have been trimmed so that his fetlock area looks smooth and tidy.

All of the tack is clean and in good repair. The excess stirrup leather is nice and short so that it won't flap about against her horse's side. The saddle pad fits the shape of the saddle nicely but is about as large as I would like to see a pad in the hunter ring. Any more than about two inches of pad showing and it can start to draw your eye away from the horse.

The rider is very neatly and conservatively dressed in typical hunter attire. If she wanted to look really sharp, she could style her hair over her ears, but her hair is very neatly and acceptably contained in a hair net as it is and the "hunter hair" style is not comfortable for everyone. Her boots have been polished and wiped off to remove any dirt or slobber from mounting and the warm-up ring.

Her horse has also been wiped with a towel to remove warm-up dirt and slobber on his legs and body. His mouth has also been wiped clean, as has his nose.

Overall, this horse and rider would give an extremely positive impression entering the ring at a schooling show. They have clearly worked hard so that they can look their best.

Our second photo shows slightly less polished turnout for a schooling show:

In this photo the mane is again unbraided, but it is sticking up and looks quite messy.Here If this horse's mane tends to stick up, I would rather see it braided even for a schooling show. Alternatively, training braids could be used in the days before the show to encourage the mane to stay over on one side of the horse's neck.

Here you can clearly see the shine in his coat from good daily grooming. His socks are again clean and white, but the hooves are in need of oiling to add a final touch. His tail looks like it was last brushed out hours before his class; the clumped pieces of hair underneath tend to appear in a dirty or unbrushed tail.

The tack is clean again for this horse show, but the standing martingale is distractingly short. The judge will likely notice its length, usually used to hold a horse's head down when it is so short, and judge accordingly. The white fleecy girth cover, which tends to be distracting on a dark horse, appears to be dirty.

Jackets were excused for this show, so the rider can't be faulted for not wearing one, although she should have kept her sleeves buttoned up. Her boots are dirty and don't appear to have seen polish for this show, a sharp contrast to her boots in the first photo. Her helmet also appears to have slipped back so that the brim is pointing upwards.

The horse appears to have been nicely wiped clean across his body again (I suspect that the slobber around his mouth was produced while he was in the ring).

These first two photos showed what a big difference a few small details can make in giving a very good, polished first impression to a fairly "rough and ready" one.

Our third photo appears to me to be older than the other two, showing this horse and rider before they found their well-fitting tack:

This time the horse is neatly braided. I can't see the braids themselves well from this side of the horse, but they appear to be well done. This type of horse with a short neck tends to look best with many small braids as they give the impression of more length.

The horse doesn't have the same deep colour this time, but it may just be from the time of year rather than quality of grooming because he looks to be well groomed in all other respects. The tail has been brushed out and the socks look clean but slightly greyed from the footing. The fetlocks could use a fresh trimming as there are tufts are hair showing. With all of the effort put into braiding this horse, the un-oiled hooves are disappointing.

Again the tack is clean, apart from some marks at the top of the girth, but there are minor details that detract from their appearance. We can see a twisted rein and a long, flapping length of excess stirrup leather. A wedge pad has been used on top of the ill-fitting shaped pad in order to make the saddle fit. Using a properly-fitted saddle would allow the rider to remove the bulky pads and probably help the horse perform better, too.

The rider is neatly and suitably dressed with clean, polished boots.

This photo shows how consistently good this rider is at having her horse wiped off before she enters the ring.

I think that as a whole, these three photos show what a difference good turnout can make in the show ring appearance of a horse and rider. This is not a sloppy rider, but an accumulation of little missed details can have quite a noticeable effect.

Thank you very much to the reader who sent in photos for this week's Turnout Critique! I won't identify you here but you're welcome to introduce yourself in a comment if you'd like.

If you're interesting in taking part in a future Turnout Critique, send your photo(s) to showringreadyblog@gmail.com

An Update and Introducing Turnout Critique!

2012-01-11T00:45:00.002-05:00

You may have noticed that I haven't written any new posts in the past few months and I thought I would explain why. After 109 posts, covering over 109 different topics, I am finding it difficult to come up with things to write about! As always, I welcome your suggestions for future posts. I know that there are aspects of horse showing that I am so used to that it wouldn't occur to me to write about them, but I would love to help you out with anything I haven't yet written about.

I'd also like to suggest a new feature for the blog, but it requires your help! It would be a Turnout Critique, in which I would supply readers with constructive criticism to improve your show ring turnout based on a photo that you send me. If you're interested in participating, you'll need to send me a clear photo of you and your horse (or just you, or just your horse, etc.) dressed to show. By sending me the photo, you grant me permission to use it in a blog post. Not only might it help to give you a better first impression in the show ring, but your photo could help other readers, too!

Send your photos to showringreadyblog@gmail.com

Jumper Medal Tack Restrictions

2011-10-04T00:06:00.000-04:00

Jumper medals can be tricky classes to prepare for equipment-wise since the rules do not really specify anything for much of the tack, leaving some to wonder whether it should be hunter-like or jumper-like. While the general turnout should resemble a hunter (fitted saddle pad, conservative, etc.), tack is not restricted to that used in the hunter ring.

Because the rules do not cover every piece of tack, interpretations may vary. What I am providing today is what is allowed in jumper medal classes on the 'A' circuit in Canada. Because the EC rules are specific to particular classes that are not held at all levels, the rules for similar classes at lower level competitions might be different.

Riders are not limited to regular cavesson nosebands, and hackamores and all humane bits are permitted over fences. Martingales are only permitted over fences, and must not be used on the flat. Only running martingales are allowed over fences.

Be aware that hackamores and gags are not permitted in the flat phase, but a change of tack between the phases is allowed.

The tack and equipment rules for the CET Medal and Mini CET Medal seem to mirror those for the USEF Show Jumping Talent Search Class:

CHAPTER 11

MEDAL CLASSES

ARTICLE G1109 CET MEDAL SPECIFICATIONS AND CLASS ROUTINE

3. TACK AND EQUIPMENT:

a) There are no restrictions on saddles.

b) Change of tack and equipment is permissible between phases.

c) Blinkers are forbidden.

d) No martingales of any kind are permitted in the flat phase.

e) Only running martingales used in the conventional manner are permitted in the jumping phase. Standing martingales, draw reins, or restricted running martingales are prohibited.

f) Reins must be attached to the bit(s) or directly to the bridle. Gags and hackamores are not allowed in the flat phase. Bit convertors are allowed.

Spurs

2011-08-08T23:46:00.001-04:00

The key point with spurs is that abuse from or improper use of them is always illegal. There are no guidelines for size or shape in the Equine Canada rulebook for hunters or jumpers, nor am I aware of any such guidelines in the USEF rule books, either. If you are unsure whether a potential spur might fall into the abusive category, it would be wise not to use it.

You can be sure that bloodied sides will indicate to the steward that abuse from spurs has occurred, but warnings or more can also be given for less explicit abuse.

The only other rule that I am aware of in the US and Canada regarding spurs is that rowelled spurs are not permitted in Canadian equitation classes (I have not found such a rule in the USEF rule book). The usual definition of a rowel is a spur ending in a rotating toothed wheel. Some riders will also call a smooth rotating disc a rowel; I do not know if a smooth disc is considered a rowel for the purposes of equitation classes.

Here is the Equine Canada rule regarding spurs in equitation classes:

CHAPTER 10

EQUITATION RULES

ARTICLE G1005 TACK AND EQUIPMENT

1. Only regular cavessons with snaffles, pelhams, double bridles or kimberwicks are permissible. Pelham converters allowed only in Junior "B" and "C" classes. Reins must be made entirely of leather. Spurs of the unrowelled type, whip optional. No whip may exceed 75 cm (30") in length.

FAQ, Part 7

2011-08-02T00:50:00.000-04:00

Do you wear white breeches in a jumper medal class?

You can, but they are certainly not required. The appropriateness will depend on the height and level of the class (White breeches would likely look out of place in a jumper medal class at a schooling show, whereas several riders might wear them on the 'A' circuit, especially for a big medal that qualifies for a final).

How do you know you are excused from the jumper ring?

The bell or whistle will sound repeatedly (i.e., a “beep-beep” instead of a “beep”) to indicate that you have been excused. The time, if it is displayed, should also be stopped.

How do you put on a collar?

Most chokers have a small slit on the back halfway along their length. This slit should be aligned with the lower button on the collar of your shirt. Insert the lower button into the slit (some shirts make this easier than others); this keeps the choker in place. Button up the ends of the choker at the back of your neck, make sure that everything is lined up correctly and you're done!

Is there a bell before starting a class in the hunter ring?

No, there is not. Over fences, you are to be judged from the moment you enter the competition ring until you leave it, so a bell is not necessary. In an under saddle class, the announcer will let the class know when the group is under the judge's orders.

What happens if you knock a rail off in a hunter class?

You will automatically receive a low score. Some judges give a standard score for such a mistake, such as 40, while others will adjust it depending on the quality of the rest of the trip. The automatic low score almost guarantees that a rail will place below a clear round. A member of the ring crew will reset the jump before the next rider enters the ring.

FAQ, Part 6

2011-07-16T23:55:00.000-04:00

Why is adding strides bad in the hunter ring?

Hunters are supposed to have a ground-covering stride. Adding strides means that your horse does not meet this requirement of the class. If you consider the hunter ring's distant roots in the hunt field, a horse that can gallop easily would make a better hunter than one that has to waste energy trying to keep up with a short, choppy stride.

What is the “left to left” rule in the warm-up?

The “left to left” guideline in the warm-up ring is a way to avoid collisions by having riders pass left shoulder to left shoulder. That means that if two riders are approaching one another in opposite directions, the rider on the left rein should take the outside track while the rider on the right rein should move to the inside. This guideline is complicated by the nature of the jumping warm-up ring, with riders needing to get to the jumps in the middle from both reins. Generally, the riders who are jumping should have priority and the others should make way for them to be able to get to the jumps. That means that every rider in the warm-up ring should keep an eye on who is jumping which jump and make an effort not to block their way (and not cross in front of the jumps while there are horses approaching or landing from them).

At what age should a child showing in the hunters start to wear tall boots?

There isn't really a set age for a child to move to tall boots. If the child is wearing hair bows, tall boots don't usually look appropriate. Many children on small ponies look best with tall boots, and I would say that, personally, at the point where the child is really riding the pony and fitting it well instead of looking like a tiny passenger, tall boots are a good choice.

Can you tie for reserve champion at a horse show?

You can have the same number of points as someone else and in that sense be tied for reserve champion, but there should always be a tie-breaker. In the hunters, the horse with the most points over fences will take the championship. If there is still a tie, most horse shows will move to a coin toss. In the jumpers, a coin toss is almost always used, although it is possible to use a jump-off.

This is the Equine Canada rule for hunters:

5. In the case of a tie the championship and/or reserve shall be awarded to the horse that has accumulated the most points over fences. If there is still a tie, the tied horses shall be shown at walk, trot, canter and gallop (pregreen and green hunter not to gallop) to determine champion and reserve. Tossing a coin to break the tie is permissible if all participants agree. This competition shall be judged as an independent hunter under saddle class with conformation, quality, substance, soundness and performance to count as prescribed throughout the appropriate division.

This is the Equine Canada rule for jumpers:

3. In the case of a tie for the championship there may be a jump-off after the last jumping class of the Competition. Exhibitors tied for Champion or Reserve may elect to jump-off or toss.

Can you use brown gloves at a hunter show?

Yes you can. There is no rule about glove colour in the EC rulebook, but it would be wise to keep the gloves a conservative and discreet colour that matches the rest of the rider's attire.

How To Jog

2011-07-06T23:26:00.000-04:00

One of the most common mistakes I've noticed so far this show season has been made in the jog. The winner, never having led a jog before, starts a pattern that results in the judge not being able to see most of the class jog, or only crosses half the ring so that there isn't room for the last horses to be jogged!

Today we'll be looking at the patterns that work in several different ring set-ups, as well as a couple of definite no-no's.

Jogging is not complicated, but you need to keep a few things in mind when planning your track:

Make your turn on the left rein so that you're not trying to outrun your horse on the outside.
Halt in a location where the line-up will not block the judge's view of the remaining horses.
Halt well back of the in-gate. You should proceed forward towards the ribbon-giver only when the judge has approved the class and the announcements begin.
Make sure that you use enough of the ring that there will be room for the entire line-up to halt while still leaving room for the last horses to jog for more than a couple of steps.
If you're further back in the line, halt about a horse length back from the horse in front of you so that everyone can fit in.

In these diagrams, the arrows beside the judge's booth show where the judge needs to be able to see the ring. If you're blocking those arrows, you're blocking the judge's view of the jog. If you finishing the jog furthest away from the judge, you can halt closer towards the in-gate since you can't block the judge's view. The dashed lines show where you should be trotting, and the dotted lines show where you can come down to a walk/halt.

Good patterns:

And some bad:

Halting in front of the judge's booth, blocking his/her view of the jogging horses

Not jogging far enough into the ring, both blocking the judge's view and not giving the last horses room to jog

If you've had a good round and you're waiting for the jog, take a look at the ring and figure out which pattern might work if you're called first. As long as you jog far into the ring and make sure not to halt in front of the judge, you can't go too wrong!

When Bad Weather Hits

2011-05-14T21:16:00.000-04:00

Let's face it: we don't always have perfect weather for showing. Sometimes, the weather goes beyond miserable and becomes dangerous. What should you do if that bad weather rolls around when it's your time to show?

The most common cause of a dangerous weather delay is the thunderstorm. Usually, thunder will not stop a class, but lightning will. If you do hear thunder close by, you might want to back off your warm-up a bit if you're low in the order since you will have to do another warm-up if your class is delayed. When loud thunder is heard, most of the competitors and officials will pay close attention to the sky, so lightning is not likely to be missed. As soon as lightning is seen, the class should be stopped and all horses and riders should immediately head to a safe area (if the lightning occurs while you are in the ring, you will probably be allowed to finish your round). Do not worry that you will miss your class by heading to safety; delays are usually at least half an hour to ensure that the bad weather has passed.

Another source of weather-related delays is heavy rain. While the show will go on in light and moderate rain, at a certain point heavy rainfall will become dangerous when visibility is affected and the footing becomes saturated. I have witnessed three delays where the rain was so bad that the show had to be stopped for the day and all classes (and even the remainder of one class) moved to the following day. This type of delay is at the discretion of the officials since it's a subjective decision. Any decisions should be announced to all over the loudspeakers and at the in-gates and the show office. If a class must be delayed after it has begun, the course must remain the same after the delay in order to keep it fair for everyone.

The difference between weather-related delays and delays for accidents or other emergencies is that the show area will empty out during a weather-related delay. No one will hang around in anticipation of the resumption (which is a good thing for safety reasons), so it tends to take longer for everyone to get back to the ring and ready to show again.

Here's the EC rule for the interruption of classes. Check the rulebook for your national federation in case it differs.

ARTICLE A512 INTERRUPTION OF CLASS

1. In the event that a class in which horses compete individually is stopped while in progress by reason of storm, accident or other emergency, the class shall continue from the point at which it ceased and all scores already credited shall count.

2. In the event that a class in which horses compete collectively is stopped while in progress by reason of storm, accident or other emergency, the class when recommenced shall be held over in its entirety and no consideration shall be given to the performances before the class was stopped.

Pre-Ordering Hay and Shavings

2011-04-30T23:36:00.000-04:00

If you cannot bring your own hay or shavings to a horse show that provides stabling, you can buy them there instead (beware, however, of the horse show mark-up!). In order to simplify life, you can pre-order them on your stall request form. There should be a section on the form that will allow you to specify a number of hay bales and/or bags of shavings to split amongst your stable. If they will not be used for every horse in the barn, changes to the split can be made in the office (do this earlier in the week, not on the last day of the show).

There are several reasons for you to pre-order them instead of ordering when you arrive at the show:

It's one less thing to stress about as you move in
They will be there waiting for you (either all in one of your stalls or outside of your stabling area) when you arrive so that you can bed the stalls and feed the horses immediately
It allows you to do the math of how many to order at home when you still have the ability to think straight
It avoids the problem of either running around trying to find the delivery person who is not aware that your newly-made order is urgent, or discovering that it is too late in the day when you arrive and the delivery person has gone home

If you pre-order, it is safe to assume that any piles of hay or shavings that you find in your stalls upon your arrival belong to you. If you do not find any hay or shavings in your stalls but you have pre-ordered, check the area outside of your stalls. If they are left outside, the delivery person will usually leave a receipt tucked in the pile in order to identify the owner, so make sure that any receipt that you find matches your name before taking possession of anything.

If you have pre-ordered but do not find any hay or shavings near your stalls, keep an eye out for the delivery tractor as you unload your horses. If it is still early in the day and you see that the tractor appears to be busy, it is safe to assume that they are busy with deliveries and simply haven't gotten to yours yet. If you see that the tractor is quiet and others seem to have received their orders, it's time to go to the office to inquire about your order. Sometimes orders do get lost, either missed on your stall form or overlooked by the delivery person. If there are lots of orders still being delivered, it probably isn't worth bothering anyone about yours just yet.

If you have room in your trailer, bringing your own hay and shavings can be worth it because those at the show tend to cost at least twice as much as they would cost elsewhere.

Online Horse Show Reminder

2011-04-26T23:17:00.000-04:00

Just a reminder for any of you who are interested in entering the online horse show that I mentioned a few weeks back here: you have about a week and a half left to enter!

Victory Gallop Etiquette

2011-04-16T22:39:00.000-04:00

The victory gallop, used as part of the ribbon presentation for important jumper classes, might seem pretty simple when viewed from outside of the ring. The horses all gallop around the ring in order of their placings and then go back to their stalls, right? Well, that's not quite all there is to it. There is some etiquette that you should be aware of before participating in your first victory gallop.

First, you should allow the winner of the class to enter the ring first for the ribbon presentation. Usually, all of the riders who have placed will assemble in the ring before the presentation begins (you may either halt your horse or walk around - it's up to you). Generally, all of the riders will hang back from the in-gate to allow the winner to enter first, regardless of the order in which the placings will be announced. The in-gate person will normally keep track of the placings in order for you to know whether to stick around for the presentation. Make sure that you keep all of your formal attire on for the presentation.

Once all of the ribbons have been given, the announcer will usually ask the riders to begin the victory gallop. The winner always leads the gallop, and is the one who will set the pace. None of the other riders should begin to gallop before the winner has started. The remaining riders should follow in the same order as their placings. Sometimes, a rider will choose not to take part in the victory gallop or is not comfortable having other horses behind theirs. In such a case, you might be invited to pass them, but passing is a no-no otherwise. If you are near the end of the line and the pace has slowed, you might even need to trot to keep from passing anyone in front of you. The person in front of you going slower than you would like is not a reason to pass unless they tell you to!

The horses who have placed second and lower will generally complete one lap of the ring before exiting, while the winner will sometimes continue on to do another lap or half-lap alone. Sometimes the winner will need to remain in the ring for photos, so if you have won, make sure that there is no one waiting there for you before you leave! You may leave the ring in any order. Some riders will take longer than others to pull up, so after the end of your one lap the order will often fall to pieces anyway and you are not expected to make an attempt to keep it. Always come back to a walk before exiting the ring for safety's sake. If your horse is excited and will not walk, you may circle as many times as you need to within reason in order to stop your horse.

Online Horse Show

2011-04-10T23:58:00.000-04:00

Are you looking for some extra practice before the show season starts?

I thought I'd let everyone know about an online horse show that is completely free to enter, and that allows you to get feedback from the comfort of your own barn. There are video classes for hunters, equitation and dressage, and photo classes for conformation and good grooming. An effort will be made to provide feedback to everyone who enters.

The only requirement to enter is that you must be a member of TheMuckBucket.com, which is a great, friendly bulletin board that is free to join.

To view the prize list, go to the horse show topic on TheMuckBucket.com here.

Entries close on May 7, 2011.

Hunter Hair Explained

2011-04-09T22:45:00.000-04:00

The most appropriate way to style your hair for hunter or equitation classes is to contain it up in your helmet. If you do not usually ride with your hair up, this might require a slightly larger helmet in order to maintain comfort. If you are not comfortable putting your hair up in your helmet or you have too much hair to be fully contained, I have seen riders do a french braid and then tuck the braid inside the collar of the show shirt and look very discrete. If you go with this method, it's best to use a hair net as well to keep any fly-aways to a minimum. Whatever you choose to do, I do not recommend the black "show bows" that are often used for dressage to contain a bun. They draw unnecessary attention to your hair that is better kept on your horse or your riding.

Today I will focus on how to put your hair up in the hunter style. There are many variants of this style, depending on personal preferences and the need for additional security (some riders will pin their hair up), so this is something that can be experimented with. Some riders prefer to use two hair nets, but in most cases one hair net should be all that you need.

What you'll need:

- A hair elastic

- A hair net matching your hair colour (some riders prefer to use two)

Step 1

Put your hair in a low ponytail, covering the tops of your ears

Step 2

Lean forward and flip your ponytail up

Step 3

Cover all of your hair with the hair net (some riders prefer to put the hair net on before the hair elastic so that it's more secure)

Step 4

While still leaning forward, put your helmet on back to front, settling the bulky base of the pony tail in the back of the harness below the hard shell of the helmet and allowing your hair to fan out slightly

Step 5

While in front of a mirror, adjust the hair net so that it looks neat and everything is contained

How to Adjust a Standing Martingale

2011-04-02T23:42:00.000-04:00

The standing martingale is a practically ubiquitous piece of equipment in the hunter ring, yet all too often it is adjusted too short or too long. Today we will cover the reasons for adjusting it correctly, as well as how to determine the right length for your horse.

The standing martingale is not meant to hold your horse's head down. It should be slack when your horse's head is carried in a relaxed position, and only come into play when the head is raised too high.

Judges are intelligent people, and if you are using a martingale to hold your horse's head down, they will notice what you were doing and penalize you accordingly. Using an overly short martingale will therefore do nothing but restrict your horse's freedom while jumping and make it more difficult for him to balance himself at other times.

A martingale that is too long is a far less serious fault. It is less likely to come into play when you need it, and might even distract your horse by swinging around. If it is very long, I would also be worried about potentially catching a leg in it while jumping.

To determine whether your martingale is the correct length, attach it while your horse is standing relaxed. Lift the strap (the one that runs from the cavesson to the chest) up as far as it will go. If it...

...doesn't lift up at all, it's far too tight.

...lifts up to the throatlatch, it should be just right. When you let go of the strap, there should be some slack in it with the horse standing comfortably.

...lifts up further than the throatlatch, it's probably too long.

FAQ, Part 5

2011-03-19T23:23:00.000-04:00

Are double-vented jackets required on the "A" circuit?

No, they are not, but jackets designed for the hunter and jumper rings do tend to be double-vented. Single-vented jackets tend to be designed for the dressage ring. Dressage jackets usually have metallic buttons that might not stand out in a good way in the conservative hunter ring. Dressage jackets are also cut differently and might be a bit more difficult to jump in. There is certainly no rule against using a single-vented jacket.

Does your horse need boots in the jumpers?

Not necessarily. Some horses jump better without boots and are shown with naked legs, even at the top levels. Boots tend to be used for protection, in case a horse accidentally strikes the back of a front leg or interferes. They are often used as a precaution, not because the horse needs boots, but just in case something happens. There is no rule that horses must compete in boots in the jumper ring.

What are the rules for shirt colour in equitation classes?

The classic shirt colour for equitation classes is white. There is no rule, however, that requires this in the Equine Canada rule book (or in the USEF rule book, as far as I am aware).

How do you reverse in a hunter under saddle class?

You should make a small half-circle when asked to reverse. This can be done in one of two ways. The first possibility is to turn to the inside and keep turning in that direction until you reach the track on the new rein, and change the bend. The other is to turn to the inside, and then change the bend and turn back the other way in order to spend more time on the new bend.

The more correct method is the second, since it gives you a better chance to establish the new bend and flexion.

Why not bang hunter tails?

There is no rule against banging the tail of a hunter ("banging" means cutting the tail bluntly), and I have seen several hunters win with their tails banged. Those hunters who do show with a banged tail usually still have quite a long tail compared to your average jumper. The natural tail would probably be considered a more traditional look, and might add to the smooth image of a hunter, while the banged tail might draw the eye away from the horse. A natural tail can sometimes look quite thin, however, and banging can give the appearance of more thickness. While the natural look is more common, you certainly wouldn't get thrown out of the ring for banging a tail.

FAQ, Part 4

2011-03-12T21:51:00.000-05:00

Are german martingales legal in jumpers?

No. A german martingale is considered to be a restrictive device and is therefore not allowed to be used in the jumper ring. The running martingale allows much more freedom because it can move freely along the reins. The german martingale cannot release beyond where it is set.

Can you wear a black jacket in hunter show ring?

Yes, you can. A navy jacket is more classic, but black jackets are allowed. They tend to give a stiffer appearance to the rider than a coloured jacket would, and many black jackets are designed and cut for the dressage world. An easy way to check whether a jacket would be suitable for the hunter ring is to look at the buttons and the back vents. In the hunter ring, the buttons will blend in with the jacket colour, whereas metallic buttons are often seen on dressage jackets. Dressage jackets also have a single back vent compared to the double vents on a hunter jacket, and a dressage jacket will also usually have two buttons in the back.

How many seconds from the bell ringing to jumping first fence?

You have 45 seconds from the moment the bell rings until you will have to cross the start line for a jumper class.

How much stride do you need for the hunter ring?

Most hunter courses are set for a 12-foot stride. Some novice classes will use shorter striding (closer to 11 feet), while the bigger divisions can use as much as a 13-foot stride.

How to get a 12 foot hunter stride?

You need to lengthen your horse's stride rather than just going faster. Speeding around the course to get the proper striding will bring your score down. Lengthening the stride is something that needs to be worked on at home with your coach, well ahead of the horse shows.

What happens if I wear my hair in a show bow at a hunter show?

You won't die, but you will be out of fashion. The show bow is a very dressage-y look, while hunters tend to tuck their hair under the helmet. The extra decorations on a show bow will draw extra attention to your unusual choice of hair style. A tight bun contained in a neutral hair net would be more appropriate if you choose not to wear your hair under your helmet.

What Happens If I Fall Off Right After the Bell?

2011-03-05T20:48:00.000-05:00

Imagine that you have trotted into the jumper ring to begin your round, the bell sounds, and then your horse spooks at the photographer standing behind a jump! You lose your balance and gracefully fly through the air, landing on your feet beside your incredulous horse. What happens now?

Based on Equine Canada rules, you can get back on if you fall off after the bell, but before crossing the start line. You may get back on to complete the course, provided you get back on in time! Disobediences that occur within those 45 seconds after the bell do not count towards your score. If you don't get through the timers within 45 seconds of the bell, the clock will start on your round and you will likely collect time faults unless you can make up that time. You must have jumped the first jump on course within the first 45 seconds after the time of your round has started (if you have not crossed the start line within 45 seconds of the bell, the time will start).

Here's the EC rule regarding falls just after the bell:

FEI ARTICLE 203 BELL

[...] The bell is used:

[...]

1.2. to give the signal to start and to activate a forty five (45) seconds countdown shown in the time equipment in the scoreboard or in another display beside the arena.

The forty five (45) seconds countdown sets the time that the Athlete can spare before commencing his round. The Ground Jury has the right to interrupt the forty five (45)-seconds countdown if unforeseen circumstances occur. Incidents such as, but not limited to, disobedience and falls, occurring between the signal to start and the moment the Athlete crosses the starting line in the correct direction, are not penalized.

The USEF has a similar rule in place.

If you fall off while in the ring before starting a hunter round, you will be eliminated and not allowed to continue because a hunter performance starts from the moment you enter the ring and ends only when you leave the ring. Falling off at any point therefore constitutes a fall during your round, which necessitates elimination.

Remember that in Canada, if you fall off during a round, you may not re-mount in the ring at risk of being disqualified from all other classes in the ring that day. The USEF allows the rider to re-mount but does not permit a courtesy fence.

FAQ, Part 3

2011-02-27T00:09:00.001-05:00

Why would a jumper use an open front boot?

Open-front boots are designed not to protect the front of the horse's legs. This is because we want a horse to be able to feel it when they rub a jump in order to learn from the mistake. If you pad that part of the leg, you risk the horse becoming careless. The hard sides and back of the boot protect the horse from hitting itself with the other front leg and from damaging the tendons by striking the back of the leg with a hind foot.

Rules for horse boots in the hunter ring?

Boots and bandages are not permitted in the hunter ring unless the weather is terrible and the steward gives permission for them to be used. Otherwise, you may warm up with boots on, but they must be removed (along with the tail wrap, if you use one) before you set foot in the show ring or you will be eliminated.

What makes a handy hunter handy?

Handiness is basically brilliance and efficiency. A handy horse will be brave and very rideable while being able to execute tighter turns and more galloping than you would normally see in a hunter course, all while maintaining the usual hunter qualities. In a handy hunter course, you're likely to see roll-backs, trot fences and option jumps (choosing a more difficult line or a bigger jump). In some classes, you might even need to open and close a gate or dismount (or even dismount and lead the horse over a small jump). Overall, I would say that handiness is very similar to rideability.

Why do you jog for soundness?

It is a rule that hunters must be sound in limb. Jogging for soundness before awarding ribbons ensures that all of the winners meet this criteria. If a horse is lame, the judge will excuse it from the line-up. This is the best time for the judge to evaluate lameness because it is not a requirement for the horses to trot before or after finishing their course in the over fences classes.

How do you attach a martingale to a belly guard?

It depends on the particular girth. Some come with carabiner-type clips in the middle that can open and close. If you use such a girth, all you have to do is slip the loop of your martingale into the clip. Other girths have a solid ring in the middle for attachments. You need to attach a clip (like a halter snap or leash clip) to your martingale in order to use the ring for that purpose. With some work and dismantling, you should be able to slip the clip right onto your martingale. A third type of attachment, that sometimes comes with the solid clip, is a leather strap, secured with either a stud or a buckle. To attach a martingale without a clip, undo the leather strap on the girth, slip it through the loop of your martingale, then re-attach the leather strap.

Something to Watch

2011-02-22T23:24:00.000-05:00

For those of you who weren't already aware of it, I thought I'd draw your attention to the 2011 George Morris Horsemastership Training Session videos. This is a series of videos, provided free of charge thanks to the group of sponsors, showing the 2011 clinic given by George Morris to a group of young equitation/jumper riders. The videos are all very informative, but there are a few that you might want to focus on if you're short on time:

http://www.usefnetwork.com/GeorgeMorris2011/

- Day 4 Lecture 2: Course design with Anthony D'Ambrosio. He explains many elements of course design and I think that it's great information for all jumpers to have.

- Day 5 (Group 1 or Group 2): The mock horse show. The riders warm up individually as they would at a horse show and ride an Anthony D'Ambrosio-designed course. It includes commentary on warming up and riding a full course.

- Day 3 (Group 1 or Group 2): Gymnastics and the introduction of the water jump.

FAQ, Part 2

2011-02-20T00:03:00.000-05:00

Do you need different tack for hunter and for jumper?

Not necessarily. Hunters have very stringent rules for tack while jumpers allow pretty much all tack that is humane, so if you outfit your horse for the hunter ring, that tack will also be allowed in the jumper ring.

How do I read a horse striding chart?

For reference, we'll use the chart provided here. In this chart there are options given for different jump heights, stride lengths and pony heights. Choose the number of strides that you want (given here in rows) and use the corresponding number in whichever category you are interested in. For horses, a 12' stride is common. This means that for a 4-stride line, you would select 60 feet, which is four times 12 feet, plus another 12-foot stride for the combined landing and take-off distances. In the hunter ring, longer stride lengths are usually used in the course design when the jumps are bigger and when the lines are coming towards home.

How do you know when to compete at higher levels on your horse?

This is something that is best discussed with your coach. You should always school over higher fences at home than you will see at the horse shows. This is because the show ring is a much more stressful atmosphere and the technicality of the course can make even small jumps quite difficult. Exercises at home are usually designed to suit the horse, while course design at shows is meant to challenge horse and rider. If you and your horse are competing confidently and comfortably at a certain height, you could consider moving up if you have been schooling above the next height bracket at home.

How to memorize hunter courses and striding

Honestly, it's just practice. If you are tired or stressed out, you might find it more difficult to remember the striding. If you are worried about remembering the numbers, try to look at the course at the beginning of the day, well ahead of your class. If you can, watch others ride over the same course so that you can get used to seeing each line ridden in a certain number of strides. As far as the course itself goes, many hunter courses flow quite well if you know the first jump and the last jump (your options are often limited because going off course would involve taking a line backwards!). Many pros will find their way around the ring with just this information. For some riders, memorizing the colours of the jumps/lines helps to cement it in the mind, while for others it's more a matter of "inside-outside-diagonal-outside-diagonal". If you're really worried, check to see if it would be possible to go off-course without jumping a line backwards. If you couldn't, then you have one less thing to worry about (you would never jump an oxer backwards, would you?). If you're worried about forgetting where the course ends, ask your coach or friends to start clapping as you come over the last line of the course.

Is it acceptable to keep a horse's mane long for hunter classes?

Not unless you are attending a breed show and the long mane is part of your breed standard. Hunters are very tradition-based, and the accepted way is to pull the mane to a length of around 4-5 inches and braid it in the hunter style. There is a reason why you see hunters and jumpers with shorter manes; it's very difficult to release properly over a jump if there is long hair to get tangled in. If you are attending a casual schooling show, you can probably get away with the longer mane, but I would recommend doing a running braid to keep the hair neat and out of the way.

FAQ, Part 1

2011-02-13T00:42:00.000-05:00

While I was looking through my Analytics data for this blog, I realized how many of you come here by asking questions on search engines. For some of your questions, I either have no corresponding blog entry or the answer lying deep within one of my posts might not be very explicit. For that reason I've decided to start a series of FAQ posts, answering some of the questions that have gotten you here. As always, the answers will be based on Equine Canada rules. Most countries should have similar rules, but please double check in your rule book before you show.

As usual, you're welcome to send me a message or leave a comment if you have a question that you would like to see answered on the blog. I will try to finish answering all of the questions from the Analytics in a future post.

Can you use reins with clips in jumper shows?

Yes, you can. Pretty much anything goes for reins in the jumper ring, provided they are attached to the bit or bridle.

Can I use rubber reins with a running martingale?

(also, Do you need rubber reins for a running martingale?)

You can use rubber reins with a running martingale in the jumper ring. The material that the reins are made of does not affect how a running martingale will work. Make sure that whichever reins you use have stoppers on them to avoid the martingale rings getting caught in the bit area (if your reins don't have them, rubber stoppers are available that can be coaxed on).

Can you have a martingale when entering shows?

(also, Can you show hunters with a martingale?, Length of running martingale?, Standing martingale purpose?, Why and when to use standing martingale?)

It depends. In the jumper ring, a running martingale is permitted at all levels while a standing martingale is permitted at the lower levels (1.15m and under). Restrictive devices such as the German martingale are never allowed when jumping. In the hunter ring, a standing martingale can be used over fences (running martingales are also technically allowed but are not seen), but not in any under saddle or flat class. For more about martingale use, see here and here.

Can you wear anything in a jumper ring?

No. Jumper attire can be more casual than hunter attire, but there are still rules in place. On very hot days, or during the week at some shows, polo shirts can be worn instead of formal attire. For a full explanation of jumper attire, see here.

What does crossing your path mean?

Crossing your path between two jumps counts as a disobedience. Crossing your path is essentially circling while on course, except that it can be any size or shape. This rule also keeps riders on the track desired by the course designer because it forces you to go directly to each jump without coming around from another direction to get a different approach, as shown by the diagrams below (the first is the correct line while the other shows crossing the path).

Knowing how this rule works can keep you from having a penalty if you start to go off course and need to correct yourself, as you can see in this next diagram. The first picture would result in four faults for crossing the path, while the second would result in zero additional faults (except for the extra time taken).

Describe how to execute a correct courtesy circle before a jump

In the hunter ring, there is usually a clear space left at either end of the ring. If you choose to circle (only once) at the beginning or end of your course, you should use these clear spaces beyond the jumps. Try to fill most of that space (unless the ring is abnormally large) with your circle. Proceed directly to and from your circle without wandering around and crossing your path to avoid being penalized with an extra circle.

Rubber reins for hunters?

Rubber reins are never allowed in the hunter ring unless the weather is terrible and you have the permission of the steward. Reins must be made entirely of leather. The reins that are made to look like leather by using leather on the outside and rubber on the inside are illegal in the hunter ring.

Why Fake Tails Are Used

2011-02-12T00:21:00.000-05:00

The frequent use of fake tails in the hunter ring is sometimes used as an example of hunters being about prettiness instead of about the performances of the horses. Today I'm going to explain how fake tails can be used to balance out some horses in order to give a better performance.

Horses, like people, are born with different qualities of hair. Certain horses have a huge tail, no matter how you treat it, while others will always have a thin, airy tail. We're used to looking at the horse as a whole, tail included. This means that the volume of the tail can affect how we see the horse's balance.

A horse with a long or thick neck can look very front-heavy if there isn't enough tail to balance the picture. Similarly, a very short neck can look even shorter if there's a huge tail making the horse's body look even longer in comparison. Part of good turn-out for a horse show is learning what to do to give each individual horse the best overall picture. That is not to say that a judge cannot detect each horse's conformation anyway, but first impressions are everything. If you enter the ring looking perfectly balanced, you're already ahead and your terrific round will raise your standing even further. If you enter the ring looking unbalanced, your great round will have to first make up for that impression rather than add to it. That initial doubt in the judge's mind isn't likely to disappear completely.

This is especially important in an under saddle class when the judge has only seconds to look at each horse before narrowing the field down to the real contenders. If that first impression isn't good, you aren't likely to have a shot at a ribbon.

Most people aren't too worried about a horse's tail looking too thick. If your horse has a shorter neck and a thick tail, braiding the tail usually works very well to lighten the back end. The same amount of hair can look very different when the braided section breaks up the mass of body and hair.

I've modified a photo that I took at a horse show to illustrate why you might want to use a fake tail. Earlier I mentioned the usefulness of a fake tail on a horse with a long or very thick neck. These photos show another scenario in which the horse's head looks very large compared to the body.

The first photo is the original. This horse does not have a very thick tail, but it is also not abnormally thin. Your first impression might be that the horse is dragging himself a bit on the forehand. Now look at the photo for a bit longer. He's actually tracking up and using himself quite well. His head is quite large compared to the rest of his body (especially the neck, which it is most likely to be compared to due to its proximity), and this makes him look unbalanced at first, even if he actually is working from behind. The point of the working hunters is not to penalize a horse for having a large head, and by focusing on turn-out we can prevent that from happening.

This next photo shows what would happen if the horse's tail was very thin. The front-heavy effect is multiplied, even though the rest of the horse is identical. When you look at this photo, chances are that you will look first at that head.

The following shows the exact same photo, but with a thicker tail. I wouldn't consider this tail to be overly thick; in my opinion, it gives the horse just the right balance. Compare this photo to the one above and ask yourself which horse you would prefer if you only had a few seconds to compare them.

The last photo I will show you isn't all that useful for this particular horse, since he benefits from a thicker tail anyway, but it makes for an interesting comparison. This is a rough drawing of what this horse might look like with a very thick, loose tail. The look is not as refined as it is with the braid, but it really changes the first impression of the horse's balance. Take notice of where your eye is drawn to in this photo. Odds are, your eye will be drawn further back, taking in more of the horse.

When you're preparing for the show season, try to look at your horse's conformation objectively. Seeing your horse ridden in a video or by another rider can sometimes allow you to notice things about the picture he presents that you might not otherwise see. Choosing whether or not to braid the tail, and whether or not to use a fake tail, is more about your horse than about being pretty. Part of succeeding in the show ring is learning how to give your horse the best shot at winning before you even step into the ring.

Champions and Reserve Champions

2011-01-16T01:00:00.000-05:00

You might be wondering how champion and reserve champion ribbons are awarded at some shows. Knowing how the recipients are determined can make it easier for you to know when to stick around for an award presentation or a tie-breaker.

There are a lot of rules relating to the awarding of championships, most of which I've posted below from the EC rule book. First I'll give a basic summary of the most useful information.

Championships are determined by adding up the points associated with each horse's placings in each of the classes of a division. The points are awarded as follows (even if the ribbons are awarded past sixth, no points will be given to those awarded a seventh place or lower):

1st - 7

2nd - 5

3rd - 4

4th - 3

5th - 2

6th - 1

The gap between first and second puts an emphasis on winning.

In a small class with consistent winners, the champion and reserve champion are likely to be those who are placing first and second in each class. In a larger class with a greater variety of horses placing (for instance in jumper divisions where a different set of horses might excel in a speed class), the champion and reserve champion are most likely to be the horses that have good results in most of the classes, even if they are not all top results. In some instances, a single first place ribbon can earn you a reserve championship.

If there is a tie in points, it is most likely to be resolved by a coin toss. In such a case, a representative of the rider will need to be present for the toss. The winner of the coin toss receives the ribbon. In the case of a tie for the championship, the winner becomes champion and the loser becomes the reserve champion.

Championships can only be awarded in divisions that have at least three classes.

For hunter championships, only the top four horses from the over fences classes (combined points from all of the classes) are eligible for the championship, although points from the under saddle class are added to finalize the placings. The prevents a spectacular mover from receiving a championship based on that movement rather than on the all-important jumping ability.

Here are the EC rules:

ARTICLE G204 HUNTER CHAMPIONSHIPS

1. Except as noted below, a competition may award hunter championships in each EC recognized hunter division providing there is a minimum of two over fences classes and one under saddle or hunter hack class in each division. If a competition offers more than one under saddle and/or hunter hack class in a division, only one may count for the championship unless the under saddle and/or hunter hack class is divided by height, age or breeding. If no under saddle class is held then one hunter hack class shall count and vice versa. The competition must specify in its prize list which full point and which half point classes in each division will count.

2. The following classes do not count towards nor make a horse eligible for a championship: breeding, local, maiden, novice, limit, pairs, teams, miscellaneous classes.

3. Points for championships shall be awarded on the following basis:

PLACING POINTS

1st 7

2nd 5

3rd 4

4th 3

5th 2

6th 1

4. The champion and reserve titles shall be awarded to two of the four horses which have accumulated the most points performing over a regulation hunter course required in the division in which they are being shown. In addition to these points, only these four horses shall receive half points for ribbons won in a model class and full points for ribbons won in one under saddle class or one hunter hack class.

5. In the case of a tie the championship and/or reserve shall be awarded to the horse that has accumulated the most points over fences. If there is still a tie, the tied horses shall be shown at walk, trot, canter and gallop (pregreen and green hunter not to gallop) to determine champion and reserve. Tossing a coin to break the tie is permissible if all participants agree. This competition shall be judged as an independent hunter under saddle class with conformation, quality, substance, soundness and performance to count as prescribed throughout the appropriate division.

6. In the event that all tied horses are declared unsound, selection of the winner amongst such tied horses shall be left to the discretion of the judge(s).

7. No classes shall count towards a championship unless all horses in the division have an equal opportunity to accumulate points. Any class that limits horse and/or rider should not count towards competition championships unless offset. This does not apply to sweepstakes or classics open to top qualifiers.

8. Points will be awarded for horses in hunter classics. In mixed classes (i.e. junior/amateur/children’s/adult), points shall be counted in their respective divisions (e.g. If the top-placed junior is 6th, he receives 6th-place points).

Classics in which juniors, amateurs and professionals are combined do not count for points.

9. Points won in one division do not count towards or make a horse eligible for the championship in another division.

10. To maintain awards won in a model class which is included in a division offered at a competition (e.g. conformation hunter), the entry must complete the course in at least one over fences class.

11. When a championship is offered, current standings must be posted at all times.

12. If there are several classes which are split but some with 50 or less entries which are not split, then the points won by the horses in this unsplit class shall be applied to their respective flight class for the calculation of championships. Separate championships must be offered when a majority of classes are divided.

13. If a class is split according to the "California split" (see Article G402) when reckoning championship points, the top eight horses that receive the most points over fences are awarded points in the under saddle/hunter hack/model class(es). The championships are awarded as follows:

Horse with the most points Champion #1

Horse with the second highest points Champion #2

Horse with the third highest points Reserve Champion #1

Horse with the fourth highest points Reserve Champion #2

14. At competitions where a separate championship class is held, horses must have been shown and judged in the qualifying classes.

ARTICLE G505 CHAMPIONSHIPS

1. A Jumper Championship and Reserve Championship may be awarded at each competition. The horse accumulating the most points will be Champion and the horse with the next largest number of points will be

Reserve Champion. The Championship will be decided upon the basis of points won in three or more full point classes. See also General Regulations.

2. In the case of a tie in a jumper class, each horse will be awarded equal points. For example, if three horses were tied for second place, each would receive second place points. The next placed horse would receive fifth place points.

3. In the case of a tie for the championship there may be a jump-off after the last jumping class of the Competition. Exhibitors tied for Champion or Reserve may elect to jump-off or toss.

4. Classes for Championship must be listed by number

5. Points for championships shall be awarded on the following basis:

PLACING POINTS

1st 7

2nd 5

3rd 4

4th 3

5th 2

6th 1

What To Wear To Your First Show (Rider)

2011-01-09T00:39:00.000-05:00

The answer to what you should wear to your first hunter/jumper show will, of course, depend on what level you are planning on showing at. The attire at an in-barn schooling show can be quite different from that at a nationally-sanctioned competition, so it's important to find out which set of rules will be followed at each particular show.

If a show is advertised as being sanctioned, licensed or recognized by a national federation (in Canada these would be Bronze-, Silver- or Gold-level competitions), you will need to follow the national rule book. If you need to pay for a national membership in order to show, chances are that the show will be following the rules of that national federation. Most rule books are available online (go here for the Equine Canada Hunter/Jumper rule book and here for the USEF rule books) and will specify what is required in terms of dress. Failure to follow those rules will result in your elimination at the show.

At a recognized show, all you must do is follow the rules to be dressed appropriately for the show. When it comes to unsanctioned schooling shows, however, it is not always clear what is expected.

It is, of course, always safest to arrive at the show in full formal show attire (jacket, show shirt, beige breeches and appropriate boots), but it is not always necessary and can be more of a monetary commitment than might be desired by someone who wants to try showing for the first time.

The best way to find out what a particular schooling show considers acceptable is to contact the show organizers directly. If you are told that formal attire will not be necessary, the next step will be to find an outfit that will be neat and appropriate. Here is a list of what you might want to consider wearing for an informal schooling show:

Helmet: Any approved helmet will do at the schooling level, although the more conservative the colour and design, the better when it comes to hunter and equitation classes.

Hair: If you have long hair, it should always be contained within a hairnet when you show. "Show bows", decorative hairnets that are meant to hang down your neck, are not generally considered appropriate in the hunter ring but they will do if you are not comfortable wearing your hair in any other way. Most hunter riders will flip their hair up under the helmet after putting it in a low ponytail to keep it neat and tidy. A regular hairnet should be used for long hair. For the jumpers, a ponytail will do but most riders will put their hair under the helmet instead to look as neat as possible.

Shirt: For informal summer shows, a tucked-in, solid-coloured polo shirt will be acceptable. In the winter, a tucked-in, solid-coloured turtle neck would also be appropriate. A collared show shirt would, of course, be best for a hunter or equitation class if you have one.

Jacket: In cooler weather, a fitted, solid-coloured sweater can be worn over your shirt. In the winter or if it is raining, a coat can be worn but the less bulky, the better. If you are on a budget and need to wear formal attire for a schooling show, a well-fitting blazer from a used clothing store can do the trick. Navy blue is the most classic colour for the hunter ring, but black, grey, brown and green are also acceptable.

Gloves: Riding gloves are not necessary but they do provide a nice finishing touch. Leather gloves are the classic choice but any type is acceptable. Black or brown gloves provide the nicest picture, while white gloves stand out too much and are not appropriate for hunter or equitation classes.

Breeches: Breeches should be beige or greenish-beige for showing. At very informal shows, darker breeches could be seen. At the schooling level, cleanliness and fit matter more than material or cut. White breeches are not appropriate for hunter classes. In the jumper ring, they are really only appropriate for big classes at the higher levels and therefore look out of place at the schooling level. Jodhpurs are acceptable for small children.

Boots: Black field boots (tall boots with laces) are the best choice, although any black or brown tall boot will do. Some federations allow the use of paddock boots with half chaps, but the rule is not universal so it is best to check your federation's rule book. In Canada, leather half chaps are acceptable as long as they match the paddock boots (this excludes FEI Children's classes). At the unsanctioned schooling level, most facilities are likely to allow half chaps.

Spurs: Spurs are optional. If you decide to use them, make sure that they are not pointed upwards.

The rule of thumb when it comes to hunter and equitation classes is really to go as conservative as possible. The judge should be given the chance to focus on your riding or your horse, rather than your clothing. If you are unsure of what will be expected of you in terms of attire, contact the show committee well ahead of the horse show (contact information should be provided in the prize list). Another way to feel more comfortable with your clothing choices is to find photos online of a previous edition of the show you will be attending. Once you have an idea of what others have worn in the past, you can arrive on show day with more important things to worry about!

Always make sure that everything you use, down to your spur straps, is clean and in good repair. Combined with well-fitting, conservative clothing, you'll be ready to make an excellent first impression on the judge.

Schooling Classes

2010-12-27T00:43:00.000-05:00

Schooling classes are used in the hunter and jumper rings in order to introduce horses to the rings outside of a regular division. They are judged either as hunter classes or jumper classes.

Jumper Schooling

Jumper schooling classes are almost always run in the same way. A course is set, generally slightly simpler and more welcoming than the courses to come later in the week. The jumps can either be set at one height for the entire class or the class can be run with a 'high' and a 'low' section (the 'low' is usually lower than the lowest division while the 'high' is the height of one of the lower divisions). The heights should be listed in the show's prize list, and either the prize list will say which height will run first if there are multiple heights or an announcement will be made at the show. If there are two heights offered, it is especially important to check in with the in-gate to let them know which height you intend to compete at in order for them to plan when to make the height adjustment. Since it is run as a single class, the entry will not indicate which height each horse will compete at. Additionally, a horse cannot be entered in both the high and low sections if both sections bear the same class number (some shows might allow entries to go hors concours a second time with the judge's permission).

Many shows will offer a clear round ribbon in the schooling jumpers, generally a miniature version of a first place ribbon, to anyone who completes the course without any jumping or time faults. While the class is judged to determine who has gone clear, there are no placings. This type of class will require show attire (though a polo shirt will generally be allowed in place of a jacket) and, as with regular classes, only one rider will be on course at a time.

Rarely, the jumper ring is left open for unjudged schooling. This is not a common practice, but it should be described in the prize list if it is offered.

Hunter Schooling

Hunter schoolings generally vary more in the way in which they are run than do jumper schoolings. First, they can be either judged or unjudged.

Unjudged hunter schoolings generally take place during a set time period either at the beginning or at the end of a show day. Multiple horses will usually be allowed in the ring together, and coaches often accompany riders into the ring, raising or lowering the jumps as needed. Formal attire is not likely to be required for such classes. Because of the informal nature of the class, riders can jump the course in a variety of ways and not worry about circling or disobediences. The number of horses allowed in the ring at one time can be limited, and it will probably be necessary to sign in with an in-gate (both to organize the number of riders and to ensure that you have paid if there is a schooling fee). If there is a fee for an unjudged schooling, it should be listed in the prize list. Because the schooling is unjudged and therefore not a competition, no ribbons or prizes are awarded.

Judged hunter schoolings are run as formal classes with only one horse on course at a time. They can be run either at a set point in the schedule (generally at the beginning of the day) or as an open card. If it is run before other classes, all of the horses must complete the schooling class before any of them can compete in their later classes. When a schooling is open card, the class is kept open throughout the show day and each horse can compete in the schooling class at any time of the day before their division, even jumping the schooling course immediately before the first class of their division. This practice keeps the horses from having to warm up multiple times and keeps the ring running smoothly. It also allows the schooling class to run at the different heights of the day's divisions, although a horse is not generally required to school at the same height as its division. Judged schooling classes at rated shows require full formal show attire.

The judged hunter schooling can be pinned in one of two ways. The first is to pin the class the same as you would any other hunter class: first, second, third, fourth, etc. The second is to use a method similar to the clear round ribbons of the jumpers. All rounds that receive a set numerical score or higher are awarded miniature first place ribbons. Those whose scores fall underneath that score but above a set minimum receive a miniature second place ribbon, while those underneath the minimum receive nothing. The prize list should outline the method that will be used.

Most schooling classes are open to all riders. Expect this to be the case unless the prize list or schedule reads otherwise.

Do not expect prize money from schooling classes. Riders who wish to have the opportunity to win back some money while schooling around the ring will usually enter one or more classes from a lower division before their main division rather than enter a true schooling class.

Hunter Braiding: Choosing a Yarn Colour

2010-12-18T20:49:00.000-05:00

Once you've perfected your technique for creating hunter braids, you might be wondering which colour of yarn you should use when it comes to show time. There is a rainbow of colours available, but that doesn't mean that you should make use of all of those colours!

While it might seem tempting, keep the pink yarn for practice or for your in-barn fun Valentine's Day show. Hunters should be turned out conservatively, and bright, colourful yarn will detract from your performance. Some riders like to have a "lucky braid", one braid that is done in a different colour, usually at a specific location on the neck. If done tastefully, this is acceptable in the show ring.

The ideal colour will be about the same as your horse's mane. If your horse's mane is a blend of colours, or if the ideal colour isn't available, a darker yarn will usually look better than a lighter one. If you will be braiding a pinto with white in its mane, have two colours of yarn handy so that you can use the one most appropriate for each section of hair.

If you will only be braiding one horse, you can choose the colour that is best for that particular mane. If you braid many horses or don't know the horses that you will be braiding, it can be easier just to keep a stock of limited, multi-purpose colours. Most manes can be done in black, off-white or a medium/dark brown. Off-white is usually a better choice than bright white because even when clean, most light-coloured horses are not truly white and can be made to look yellow by a too-white yarn.

The table below shows the most common horse colours along with the colour of yarn that I would choose for each one. All of the yarns shown are from my favourite brand, Bernat Satin. The middle column shows the best-matched colour from that collection while the column on the right shows only black, off-white and medium/dark brown.

The Mini Prix

2010-07-13T23:26:00.000-04:00

On some prize lists, you might see the words "mini prix" beside the name of the last class of certain jumper divisions (generally the jr/am ones). A mini prix is a smaller version of the grand prix, the biggest and most lucrative class of the show.

The mini prix will have a higher entry fee than the other classes of the division in order to allow for greater prize money. The course will also generally be longer than your usual jumper course, consisting of about twelve numbered obstacles compared to ten in other classes. In addition to the increased length, the level of difficulty will also generally be a bit higher, with a triple combination in most cases and sometimes spookier jumps as well.

The mini prix will almost always be run with a posted order to make things fair. While the jump-off is usually delayed like in a regular grand prix, some shows will use an immediate jump-off so that the day will run quickly.

There is generally a formal ribbon presentation on horseback with a victory gallop for all of those who have placed. The number of awards given out is usually two more than are given for the regular classes of that division.

Be prepared to wear formal attire for any mini prix. It is quite common to braid for such a class, but it is not required.

Keeping a Clean Horse From Rolling

2010-07-06T00:12:00.000-04:00

You've scrubbed every inch of your grey horse, put him in his stall to dry and then left the barn to go check on the show ring. You come back, ready to tack up and get on, only to find that he is suddenly covered in shavings and stains! How can you prevent yourself from being stressed out and late for your class in the future?

Whatever you do, keep your horse's stall clean. You might be tempted not to clean it before bathing, but a dirty stall will make for dirty legs!

Here is what I do for horses that are known to roll after their baths:

Only bath shortly before the class, allowing just enough time for the horse to dry. Bathing too early will force the horse to stand around for longer than is necessary, which isn't fair if he needs to be tied up.
Tie the horse up in its stall immediately after the bath. I like to tie a loop of baling twine to the stall for safety purposes and then tie the lead rope securely to that. Horses can untie quick release knots, so I tend to let the baling twine and halter act as safety devices and use a more secure knot. Make sure that the lead rope is short enough that the horse will not be able to get caught up or lie down and roll, but long enough that he will be able to reach his water. You might also want to unclip the throatlatch of the halter for safety (clipping it back on itself will prevent it from swinging around).
Give him a hay net. This will keep him happy and occupied. I like to tie everything so that the horse is between the hay net and his water buckets, allowing him to reach everything without leaving the lead rope too long. If you do provide a hay net, be aware that hay can die a wet, white face green! Be ready with alcohol and a towel before you tack up to solve that problem.
Do not leave him untied at any point before his class! You might be tempted to let him loose once he has dried but you still risk him rolling. It is for this reason that I try to bath as close to the time of the class as possible, since it is unfair to ask the horse to stand tied for half the day.

Handy Hunter

2010-07-01T23:11:00.000-04:00

While most of the time, hunter classes are labelled simply as "over fences" or "under saddle", there are some different types of class to look out for in the prize list. One of these is the Handy Hunter class.

If it is offered, it will usually be just one of the classes in a normal hunter division.

What can you expect from a handy hunter course? It will vary from your usual inside-outside-diagonal-outside-diagonal hunter course in that it will require the horse to be more "handy". A handy horse is one that is very easy to maneuver around a course. The judge will want to see a horse that can handle tighter turns more easily and take some chances while being very responsive.

Different elements that might be seen in a handy hunter course are gallop jumps, rollbacks, trot jumps, a gate to open and/or close from the horse's back, etc. You might even be asked to dismount and lead the horse over a jump.

Here is the official EC rule concerning handy hunter classes:

ARTICLE G315 HANDY HUNTER

May be offered as one class per division. Course should vary from the normal hunter class routine to include elements that show rideability and handiness. e.g. turn back, trot fences, option lines. Not recommended for green horses or novice rider classes.

What Happens If A Jump Blows Down?

2010-06-29T00:17:00.000-04:00

Imagine that you're on course on a windy day, approaching your next jump when part of it blows down! What do you do?

If the judge notices the problem immediately, the bell will be rung and you can stop or circle until the obstacle is rebuilt and the bell is rung to signal you to resume your round.

If you notice the problem before the judge does, stop and point in the direction of the jump. The clock will be stopped and an adjustment might be made to your time to account for any delay. Wait until the bell is rung before you take the jump.

Here is the official EC rule:

FEI ARTICLE 233 STOPPING DURING THE ROUND

1. In the event of a competitor not being able to continue his round for any reason or unforeseen circumstance, the bell should be rung to stop the competitor. As soon as it is evident that the competitor is stopping, the clock will be stopped. As soon as the course is ready again, the bell will be rung, and the clock will be restarted when the competitor reaches the precise place where the clock was stopped.

2. If the competitor does not stop when the bell is rung, he continues at his own risk, and the clock should not be stopped. The Ground Jury must decide whether the competitor is to be eliminated for ignoring the order to stop, or whether, under the circumstances, he should be allowed to continue. If the competitor is not eliminated, and is allowed to continue his round, the scores obtained at the obstacles preceding and following the order to stop will count whether they are good or bad.

3. If the competitor stops voluntarily to signal to the Ground Jury that the obstacle to be jumped is wrongly built or if due to unforeseen circumstances beyond the control of the competitor, he is prevented from continuing his round under normal circumstances, the clock must be stopped immediately.

3.1. If the dimensions are correct and the obstacle in question has been properly built or if the so-called unforeseen circumstances are not accepted as such by the Ground Jury, the competitor will be penalized as for stopping during the round (223.1) and the time of his round will be increased by 6 seconds;

3.2. if the obstacle or part of the obstacle needs to be rebuilt or if the unforeseen circumstances are accepted as such by the Ground Jury, the competitor is not penalized. The time of the interruption must be deducted and the clock stopped until the moment when the competitor takes up his track at the point where he stopped. Any delay incurred by the competitor must be taken into consideration and an appropriate number of seconds deducted from his recorded time.

What Constitutes a Knock-Down?

2010-06-10T00:30:00.001-04:00

You might think that dislodging any part of a jump on course would count as a knock-down, but that isn't necessarily true!

If, while jumping a vertical in a jumper class, you dislodge a lower rail without dislodging the top rail (it can be done, as I know from personal experience!), you will not be penalized for the rail according to EC rules.

For hunters, here are the official rules regarding knock-downs:

ARTICLE G407 THE SCORING OF HUNTERS

2. An obstacle is considered knocked down when its height is lowered by the horse or rider.

3. If the height of the jump is altered as a result of a horse or rider contacting a wing or post it will be scored as a knockdown.

4. If a jump falls as a result of a horse or rider contacting a wing or post it will be scored as a knock-down.

And the rules for jumpers:

FEI ARTICLE 217 KNOCK DOWN

1. An obstacle is considered to have been knocked down when, through a mistake of the horse or competitor:

1.1. the whole or any upper part of the same vertical plane of it falls, even if the part which falls is arrested in its fall by any other part of the obstacle (218.1);

1.2. at least one of its ends no longer rests on any part of its support.

2. Touches and displacements of any part of an obstacle or its flags, in whatever direction, while in the act of jumping, do not count as a knock down. If in doubt the Ground Jury should decide in favour of the competitor. The knock down or displacement of an obstacle and/or a flag as a result of a disobedience is penalized as a refusal only. In the event of the displacement of any part of an obstacle, (except the flags), as a result of a disobedience, the bell will be rung and the clock stopped while the displacement is re-adjusted. This does not count as a knock down and is only penalized as a disobedience and corrected by time in accordance with article 232.

3. Penalties for knocking down an obstacle are those provided for under Tables A and C (236 and 239).

4. If any part of an obstacle, which has been knocked down is likely to impede a competitor in jumping another obstacle, the bell must be rung and the clock stopped while this part is picked up and the way is cleared.

5. If a competitor jumps an obstacle correctly which has been improperly rebuilt, he incurs no penalty; but if he knocks down this obstacle he will be penalized in accordance with the table in use for the competition.

FEI ARTICLE 218 VERTICAL AND SPREAD OBSTACLES

1. When a vertical obstacle or part of an obstacle comprises two or several parts placed one above the other and positioned in the same vertical plane, only the fall of the top part is penalized.

2. When a spread obstacle which requires only one effort comprises parts which are not positioned in the same vertical plane, the fall of one or several top parts only counts as one fault whatever the number and position of the parts which have fallen. Trees, hedges etc. used as filling are not liable for penalties.

In short, lowering the height of the jump will result in a knock-down while dislodging any filler (lower rails or decorative filler) will not.

What Happens If I Fall Off?

2010-06-08T00:03:00.000-04:00

The answer to this question really depends on the rules of your national federation. If you check any rule book, it should probably come under "Falls". Some federations will not allow you to remount in the show ring due to safety considerations while others will allow you to remount and ride out of the ring.

If you fall off during a class, Equine Canada rules state that you are eliminated and can not get back on the horse in the show ring:

ARTICLE G103 FALLS
After being eliminated for a fall, the rider may not remount in the ring. Any rider who does remount in the ring after a fall will be eliminated from all classes in that ring for the remainder of the day. A rider who remounts after a fall and takes another obstacle will be disqualified from the remainder of the competition.

If you fall off and you are able to keep a hold of your horse, lead your horse out of the ring at the walk. If you fall off and your horse runs away, either stay where you are awaiting medical assistance or help to catch your horse. Once he has been caught, you or someone else can lead him out of the ring. Once you have left the show ring, you can remount in the warm-up area and continue to ride.

Keep in mind that the rule refers to falls in which the horse is eliminated. If the fall occurs before the start timers in a jumper class, the horse is not eliminated and the rider can remount:

FEI ARTICLE 203 BELL

1.2. [...] Disobediences, falls etc. occurring between the signal to start and the moment the competitor crosses the starting line in the correct direction, are not penalized.

You may be given a leg up by a third party (i.e. a member of the jump crew) provided you have not yet crossed the start line:

FEI ARTICLE 225 UNAUTHORIZED ASSISTANCE
1. Any physical intervention by a third party between the crossing of the starting line in the correct direction and the crossing of the finishing line after jumping the last obstacle, whether solicited or not, with the object of helping the competitor or his horse is considered to be unauthorized assistance.

For hunters, here is the specific EC rule:

ARTICLE G407 THE SCORING OF HUNTERS

5. Horse and/or rider falling while in competition incurs elimination, and a rider may not remount in the ring. A competitor is considered to have fallen when, either voluntarily or involuntarily, he/she is separated from his/her horse, which has not fallen, in such a way that he/she touches the ground or finds it necessary, in order to get back into the saddle, to use some form of support or outside assistance. A horse is considered to have fallen when at the same time both its shoulder and quarters have touched either the ground or the obstacle and the ground.

For clarity, here is the definition of a fall:

FEI ARTICLE 224 FALLS
1. A competitor is considered to have fallen when, either voluntarily or involuntarily, he is separated from his horse, which has not fallen, in such a way that he touches the ground or finds it necessary, in order to get back into the saddle, to use some form of support or outside assistance. If it is not clear that the competitor has used some form of support or outside assistance to prevent his fall, the benefit of doubt must be given to the
competitor.
2. A horse is considered to have fallen when the shoulder and quarters have touched the ground or the obstacle and the ground.

Trainer Conflicts

2010-05-27T21:53:00.000-04:00

When there are several rings running at a horse show, it can be difficult for a coach to get to every ring on time. This results in what we call "trainer conflicts".

You are not expected to warm up and enter the show ring without your coach being present. The ingate person will generally try to accommodate you in the order, provided you have informed them of the conflict and tried your hardest to get there on time. If you are ready and at the ring, the show management will be more likely to help you out than if you and your horse are absent and not ready to go at a moment's notice.

If the conflict drags on for too long or if you are taking too long to prepare once the conflict has been resolved, the show could institute a time limit for you to enter the ring. In order to avoid this, be organized and plan your day as well as you can!

It's always a good idea to find out which ring has the highest priority of the show. This ring usually has the most important classes, the most classes, or a posted order. Because the show wants this ring to run smoothly, long waits are less likely to be tolerated and trainers should make sure to be on time for that ring.

The lowest priority ring is likely to have longer waits and be more lenient because some trainers must be at the higher priority rings. If you will be showing in a low-priority ring, prepare yourself to wait through conflicts and try not to stress out when it seems as though the conflict will never end. As long as you keep in touch with the ingate person, the class is not likely to end without you.

Communication is key!

What Happens If I Go Off Course?

2010-05-14T23:17:00.000-04:00

Hopefully, you will never make the mistake of going off course during a round, but what happens if you do? Regardless of whether you are competing in the hunters or the jumpers, going off course incurs elimination.

Going off course includes jumping the fences in the wrong order, jumping a fence that is not part of the course, omitting a jump, etc.

Hunters

If you are aware that you have gone off course:

Once you know that you are off course, you should stop jumping immediately and exit the ring promptly.

If you are not aware that you have gone off course:

At most shows, you will be asked by the announcer to leave the ring: "Rider in Ring _, you are excused." Once you have been told to leave the ring, you need to stop jumping immediately and exit the ring.

At some shows, you might be asked to leave by the ingate person instead. In such as case, as soon as you hear the shouting from the ingate, you need to stop your round.

Jumpers

As soon as the judge notices that you are off course, the bell will be rung repeatedly to indicate that you have been eliminated. Once the bell has been rung, you should not continue on course.

Going off course in the jumpers includes not crossing between the start timers and missing a mandatory turning point (generally seen on banks). Carefully checking the course diagram before the class can prevent some of these errors of course.

You can correct your deviation as long as you make a change before jumping the first wrong jump. Circling back or crossing your path when you notice that you are about to go off course will incur four faults but you will at least avoid being eliminated. Once you have taken a jump backwards or in the wrong order, no corrections can be made to avoid elimination.

Bling

2010-05-13T23:02:00.000-04:00

You might be tempted to wear some flashy clothing or tack into the show ring to get noticed, but are you allowed to have "bling"?

Here are the EC rules that apply to this situation:

GENERAL RULES FOR NATIONAL HUNTERS AND JUMPERS

ARTICLE G109 DRESS

2. [...] Only approved helmets (see Article G102) of a conservative color are allowed.

EQUITATION RULES

ARTICLE G1003 DRESS

1. While exhibitors and judges should bear in mind that entries are being judged at all times on ability, it should be noted that neatness is a first requisite regarding rider's dress.

2. Jacket - conservative colour; Jodhpurs or breeches; ties, stocks or chokers must be worn; boots; black or brown smooth leather half chaps are permissible providing they match the boot colour.

3. Conservative-coloured protective headgear (as per Article G1004) with no additional adornments.

MEDAL CLASSES

ARTICLE G1103 HEADGEAR

Conservative coloured protective headgear (as per Article G1004) with no additional adornments.

HUNTERS

ARTICLE G202 TACK AND EQUIPMENT

7. Browbands: All leather of any description but not coloured or jeweled.

Horse-wise, in the jumper ring, you can use as much "bling" as you'd like and you will still be allowed to compete.

In hunter or equitation classes, any "bling" on the horse is not appropriate. The bridle should be plain brown (or black) leather with no metal clinchers or jewels on the browband (or noseband, for that matter!). The padding should also be brown or black, not coloured. If you can think of anywhere else on the horse to put anything flashy, just don't do it!

The official Equine Canada rules really only take into account flashy helmets as far as the rider is concerned. In all rings, including the jumpers, helmets must be of a conservative colour. In equitation and medal classes, there must be no additional adornments, either, which means no jewels and no coloured stripes.

In equitation classes, jackets must also be of a conservative colour. You should be fine as long as you don't stray from the standard colours (navy, black, grey, etc.). While most riders will wear a white show shirt for equitation classes, there is no rule requiring it.

Tack Boxes

2010-05-12T00:33:00.000-04:00

Tack boxes are very handy for getting your equipment to and from each show while keeping it all neat and organized. They come in all shapes and sizes and which type you use will depend on your budget, available space and preferences for weight and style.

Most tack trunks fall under one of the following categories:

Vinyl Trunks - These are usually the most stylish option, often made with custom colours and the rider's name or initials printed on the trunk. They are available in a variety of sizes and the largest ones can generally fit anything that you'd like to put in there. The downsides to this option are their space requirements and their weight. The larger models can be very wide and therefore don't fit in the more narrow tent aisles. In such a case, you would be forced to put the trunk outside or in a tack stall (it will take up a lot of space in there!). They can be difficult to carry around even for two people, so they are not a good option if you'll be doing most of the loading or unloading yourself. They are also very expensive.

Wooden Trunks - These also look very classy when they are done well. Again, they can come in a variety of sizes but I have found there to be a lot more narrower widths available than in the vinyl category, which makes fitting them in tent aisles much easier. They can be quite heavy, so again, usually two people are required to move them around. The cost varies depending on the size and quality. If you can build one yourself, it can be a very inexpensive option.

Plastic Trunks - These provide a lighter alternative to the vinyl or wooden trunks while still providing some bigger sizes to fit all of your equipment. They tend not to look all that nice and a lot of riders will use a special trunk cover to improve the look. They are generally a bit cheaper than wooden trunks.

Rubbermaids - This is my tack box of choice! They are inexpensive, very light and come in a variety of sizes. They tend not to look all that attractive, but they are practical. One strong person can often lift even the larger ones without help, so they are great if you will be working solo. I also like being able to empty some of them into the tack stall and then just tossing them back into the trailer for storage.

Whichever type you choose, make sure that the box will fit through the tack room door of any trailer that you will be using. Some of the wider trunks will not fit through your average door!

Jumper Tack: Reins

2010-05-10T01:06:00.000-04:00

As far as reins go, anything goes in the jumper ring! You can use whichever combination of whichever reins you'd like and be perfectly legal.

The most popular are probably rubber reins due to their excellent grip. If you use them, make sure that you don't use saddle soap or any sort of conditioner on them as it can make them grungy. The rubber will eventually wear down over time with use and you will need to either get them re-coated or buy new ones.

Some riders prefer to use web reins. They are not as bulky as rubber reins and are less likely to become slippery when wet than leather reins.

Leather reins, laced, braided or plain, are always an option. They provide a thinner alternative for a curb rein but don't tend to be as grippy as the other choices.

If you are using a running martingale, make sure that your reins have rein stops on them (seen on the reins in this photo). If either of the rings gets stuck on the end of the reins or on the bit, you'll be in trouble and using rein stops between the martingale and the bit will prevent that from ever happening. Most rubber reins tend to come with leather ones already attached, but if your reins don't have them you can buy rubber ones that are quite easy to slide on to the reins. It really is important for your safety not to use a running martingale without them.

Hunter Tack: Reins

2010-05-09T00:51:00.000-04:00

Hunter tack tends to be very limited in its options, and reins are no exception. The rules state that the reins must be made entirely of leather, so that means that rubber or webbed reins are definitely out (unless rubber reins are allowed in bad weather, which is essentially never).

The EC rule:

ARTICLE G202 TACK AND EQUIPMENT

6. Reins: entirely leather of any description, buckled, studded or sewn; single rein pelham and pelham converters are only allowed in junior and amateur classes in 3’ (0.90m) or below. In the case of bad weather, at the discretion of the judge, steward and/or competition committee, rubber reins may be allowed.

So which reins can you use?

The most commonly-seen reins in the hunter ring are laced reins. Each side is made of a long piece of leather that has two narrower strips of leather woven through it for grip. They are relatively easy to keep clean and, while they are not as grippy as rubber reins, they are easier to hold on to than plain leather reins.

Braided reins are not as popular as laced reins, but they are made entirely of leather and are allowed in competition. Rather than having a solid piece of leather down the entire length of the rein, braided reins consist of a length of braided narrower strips of leather.

Plain reins are just a solid piece of leather and are generally used as a curb rein because they provide less bulk and allow the rider to feel the difference between the two sets of reins. They are less grippy than the others and so are not generally used as the main reins.

Whichever type you choose, the key is for the reins not to stand out. They should be the same colour as the rest of your bridle. Whether you go with a buckle attachment or a stud attachment is your choice, but I find that the stud attachments blend in better and provide a cleaner picture.

Most rein are available in different widths, and because there is no rule about rein width, you should just choose whichever width feels best in your hands.

Jogging For Ribbons

2010-05-08T00:52:00.000-04:00

In sanctioned or rated hunter divisions, horses are required to jog for soundness before receiving ribbons. In schooling divisions or unsanctioned divisions, jogging is done only at the judge's discretion, which is very rarely!

In order to jog, you will need to remove your horse's saddle and martingale completely (detaching the martingale from the girth and keeping it around the neck is not acceptable). If you have the time, try to remove any saddle marks. Keep the bridle on and done up completely, and then use the reins to lead the horse.

The ingate should have a standby list near the end of the class with the numbers that are expected to be asked to jog in for ribbons. This list can, of course, change as the last riders complete their rounds, but you should be prepared to jog regardless if you are on that standby list. After all of the horses have finished, the ingate will call the numbers of the horses that need to jog and you must enter the ring in that order.

If you are jogging in second place or lower, all that you will need to do is follow the first rider's path through the ring. If you are jogging in first, ask the ingate where you should jog to if you're not sure. You will generally jog diagonally across the ring from the ingate to the far end, passing in front of the judge and then circling back and coming to a halt before you obstruct the judge's view of the other horses. The horses should remain lined up in the same order in which they were called in.

Wherever you end up in the line, ensure that you leave enough room for all of the horses to jog and line up. If the first horse doesn't go far enough or if the horses are too spread out, the last horses might not have enough space to get a jog going.

If you are not sure whether your horse jogs well, practice at home. It helps to have a crop in one hand at first so that you can give the horse a little tap on the side as you begin to jog rather than trying to pull him forward with the bridle.

The rider should be dressed completely while jogging, including wearing a helmet (absolutely necessary for junior divisions) and number.

If you are showing multiple horses in the same division, you can have another rider jog one of your horses for you. For amateur classes, that spare jogger must be an amateur, and for junior classes they must be a junior.

Here are the EC rules relating to jogging a hunter for soundness:

ARTICLE G401 GENERAL RULES PERTAINING TO THE CONDUCT OF HUNTER CLASSES

5. In all hunter classes except miscellaneous hunter, horses and ponies must be jogged for soundness (see Article G406.2). Juniors showing any horse in a jog for soundness must wear approved protective headgear with the attached safety harness fastened.

6. All horses and ponies showing in junior classes must be jogged by a junior.

All horses and ponies showing in amateur classes must be jogged by an amateur.

ARTICLE G406 JUDGING WORKING HUNTERS

2. Horses must be serviceably sound in eye, wind and limb. Horses are required to jog for soundness in all except miscellaneous hunter classes.

ARTICLE G202 TACK AND EQUIPMENT

1. When required to return to the ring for conformation or soundness, entries will be refused an award unless they return in the complete bridle in which they have shown.

[...]

15. Bandages and Boots: No bandages or boots are allowed; in the case of bad weather, at the discretion of the judge, steward and/or competition committee, tendon, ankle and bell boots may be worn in hunter classes but boots must be removed before the horse jogs in front of the judge for conformation and/or soundness.

Numbers Worn On The Back

2010-05-06T01:03:00.000-04:00

In the hunter ring and for equitation classes, the number must be worn on the rider's back. This allows it to be seen from both sides in any classes run on the flat while at the same time being neat and inconspicuous.

When you are competing over fences, the number should be centered in the middle of your back. In an under saddle or flat class, enter the ring with your number centered and then adjust it to one side or the other before the class begins. If the judge is sitting outside the ring, she will most likely ask you to move your number slightly to the outside. If she is standing inside the ring, the will ask for it to be moved slightly to the inside.

Moving your number slightly is very important. The judge must be able to take a quick look at any horse in the ring, and there is not time for her to watch you long enough to try to catch a glimpse of your number as you go around a corner. When you turn your number, make sure that you don't turn it so far that your arm covers the number!

The string that you should use to tie the number around your waist is generally a dark shoestring, available at the show office when you pick up your number.

There is a definite wrong way to thread your number; passing the string over top of the number is a big no-no:

There are two possible correct ways to thread it. One way allows the number to move along the string, which is useful if you hide the knot in a buttonhole on your jacket, making the string itself impossible to turn during a flat class:

My preference is to thread is so that the number is centered on the string and cannot move. This is done by first threading it through as seen in the two photos above. The next step is to ensure that the number is centered. This can be done either by holding the two ends of the string up together and moving the number until it hangs parallel to the ground or by stretching the two ends of the string out together and measuring by eye:

The next step is to then take each end of the string and thread it back through the hole it originally came through (in the same direction):

This creates a tight loop of string around the cardboard at the edge, keeping the number from sliding along the string. After securing both sides, the final result should look something like this:

Hunter Tails

2010-05-05T00:57:00.000-04:00

In the hunter ring, horses' tails are generally left longer and more natural-looking than the banged tails of the jumper ring.

There is actually quite a variation in the tails seen on hunters, with some riders not trimming the tail at all while others do bang it (albeit leaving it longer than most jumpers would). My personal preference is something in between the two extremes: trimming the tail to a length that suits the horse without leaving it with such a square bottom.

Lengthwise, you should be aiming for the tail to finish no higher than just about the fetlocks. The horse's conformation and the thickness of the tail determine how much longer I will trim it.

I find that a thin tail looks better if it's slightly shorter because increased length will just make it look thinner by increasing the length to width ratio. Fake tails are available to supplement a thin tail and they are legal in the hunter ring. Sometimes the fake tail will help to balance the look of the horse out as some horses look very heavy on the forehand with just a thin tail.

A thick tail tends to look a bit too blunt if it's cut too short, so those ones are best left longer.

When I trim a hunter's tail, I tend not to cut straight across, but rather I make multiple small cuts on an angle to create a slight variation in hair length. This keeps the tail looking more natural than it would if it were banged.

Numbers Worn On the Saddle

2010-05-04T00:46:00.000-04:00

There are multiple ways of wearing your number in the jumper ring. These include wearing it on your back, attaching it to your saddle pad, attaching a small number to your martingale or breastplate, and attaching a small number to your bridle. The most popular is, by far, pinning it to your saddle pad.

The choice of which side to put the number on is not yours to make. The number is there for the ingate person to see as you enter the ring and it should therefore be on the side of the horse that faces the ingate person while you're on deck.

Whether you choose to attach it horizontally or on an angle is up to you. Just make sure that the number is entirely legible!

To pin your number to your saddle pad, you will need a square pad and two or three large safety pins.

Most cardboard numbers come with one hole punched on each side and then a couple of holes punched at the top, as shown in the diagram on the right.. While it's possible to attach the number using just these holes, I find that it makes for a loose number, and those sideways pins on the sides aren't very attractive, either!

Instead, I like to use the pin to create an extra hole on each side. In order to create a nicer picture, I like to run the pins through from underneath so that the bulky parts of the safety pin are hidden beneath the number. When done this way, only a thin strip of metal is visible between the holes.

To run the pin through from underneath, start by positioning the number where you would like it on the saddle pad. Insert one of the large safety pins up through one of the original side holes from the back of the number to the front, piercing the fabric of the pad slightly as you begin. Run it about an inch straight down across the top of the number and then pierce the cardboard, pushing the safety pin back down and into the saddle pad. Once you've pierced enough fabric to hold it on well, close the safety pin and repeat for the other side.

It will take some practice to get the correct amount of fabric on both sides to make the number completely secure. If you've done it correctly, the bulk of the safety pin should be under the number like in the photo below.

If you are worried about either of the side pins coming undone, you can run another safety pin through the top holes. Again, try to hide the pin behind the number. This time, you won't have to pierce any holes because the two at the top should be close enough together.

Banging The Tail

2010-05-02T23:34:00.000-04:00

In the jumpers, most horses are shown with their tails banged. A banged tail is one that is cut straight across at the bottom to make it shorter. The bottom of the tail is not actually horizontal relative to the ground when the horse is at rest, but is cut to be horizontal when the horse raises its tail during work.

The length of the tail is really up to personal preference. Most jumper tails end somewhere between the fetlock and halfway up the cannon bone.

I'm going to show you today how I, personally, bang a tail to mimic the lift of the tail while the horse is ridden. I am right-handed, and the white circle represents my left hand while the red circle represents my right hand.

Step 1 - Put your scissors in a place where they will be easily accessible to you, such as in a pocket. Grasp the tail with your right hand right under the dock.

Step 2 - Lift the tail up to about the average carriage that you have seen when the horse is worked.

Step 3 - Keeping the tail held up with your right hand, wrap your left hand around the circumference of the tail just below your right hand. Squeeze the hairs of the tail together with your left hand as you run that hand down the tail to just above the height that you want to cut it at.

Keeping the tail held up while you do this step is very important!

Step 4 - While squeezing very tightly with your left hand so that no hair slips, let go of the dock and grab the scissors with your right hand. Cut straight across right below your left hand. You can cut straight across at this point because now the difference in hair length is above your fist rather than below it.

Step 5 - You're done! Lift up the tail by the dock again just to make sure that you've gotten it right (if you have, it should appear pretty much straight across when it's lifted as you see in this diagram). If it doesn't look perfect, just try again and take off the minimum to keep the tail from getting too short.

Some riders like to put something like a towel under the dock to hold it up while you cut. I believe that this just complicates things unnecessarily, but use whatever works best for you.

Hunter Striding

2010-05-02T00:01:00.001-04:00

A very big part of being successful in the hunter ring is learning what the ideal stride length feels like. Adding or subtracting a stride in a line is a major fault so memorizing what is expected of you at each distance is a must.

Rather than standing at the ingate attempting mental math, it really is best just to memorize the striding. If you are showing a horse, memorize the most common line lengths (usually four, five or six strides) for a 12-foot stride. That's just three numbers to remember and the math to determine how short or long those lines will ride is easy! If you're riding a pony, memorize the most common line lengths for the ideal stride corresponding to your pony's size category.

Most courses are set for a 12-foot stride, so that is what you should aim to get a feel for at home. Some novice classes at schooling or 'B'-circuit shows will be set using an 11- or 11.5-foot stride to account for smaller jumps and less experienced riders. The higher hunter classes on the 'A'-circuit, on the other hand, will be set for a longer stride due to the bigger jumps. Because the distances will be written on the course diagram between the fences, there will be no surprises while you're on course!

There is a great chart here showing the distances for horses and ponies for each number of strides and at almost all stride lengths (check out GrandPrixDesign's main website for many more course design tips).

The course designer's aim for the hunter ring is to make each horse look as good as possible. This is why you will find that the distances in lines heading away from the ingate will be shorter than the distances in the lines heading towards the ingate. Horses will generally lengthen the canter slightly when they're coming towards home, so this will make all of the lines ride roughly the same.

Keep in mind that getting the striding in the lines alone is not enough; the judge does not want to see a slow, relaxed canter around the corners and then a rushed canter in the lines to make the distance. Keep your canter the same throughout the course by having every stride you take be the ideal length for your class.

Jumper Boots

2010-05-01T00:11:00.001-04:00

The seemingly wide variety of boots worn by jumpers can make choosing a set for your horse a daunting task. Luckily, the basic boot is essentially always the same, with the styling, materials and colours varying.

Because jumpers need to be careful, we don't want the horse to have a lot of padding on the front of any of the legs. If the front of the boot is padded, the horse will not be able to "feel" any rubs and might become careless. For this reason, we almost always use open-front boots. Open front boots protect the tendons at the back of the legs from the horse over-reaching and protect the inside of each leg from the horse hitting itself.

While I am focusing on boots for the front legs, open-front boots are also available for the hind legs should your horse need protection there, too.

Here you can see the difference between an open-front boot (on the right) and a closed splint boot (on the left). The open-front boot leaves the front of the leg exposed except for the leather straps while the splint boot has neoprene wrapped around the entire leg to cover the front as well. Note that this horse is also wearing bell boots. These are not often used on jumpers unless they are absolutely needed because, again, the horse might not feel rubs with them on.

There are many different styles of open front boots available depending on your preferences and your budget. The most expensive, and nicest-looking for the show ring, are usually the leather ones while those with hard plastic outer shells and neoprene lining are usually the cheapest.

Here are the standard materials used for the boot itself:

Leather - While leather boots look very nice, keep in mind that the narrow leather straps can dig into the legs of some sensitive horses. They do tend to require a thorough cleaning after each ride because the inside of the boot will acquire a coating of grit and sweat. There should be elastic incorporated into the straps to allow some give. Leather boots are also available with sheepskin linings, which, while gentle on the horse's legs, are very difficult to keep clean.

Plastic Polymer With Neoprene - These boots have a semi-rigid plastic shell with a neoprene lining. The hard shell protects against cuts and knocks. Since the shape of these boots is not adjustable, they can rub some horses' legs. Certain horses react poorly to the neoprene, in which case these boots can be used with a sheepskin lining instead. While they are available in almost all of the colours of the rainbow, they really should be black, brown or white for the show ring.

Plastic Polymer With Memory Foam - These boots have a similar semi-rigid plastic shell for protection but conform to the legs better than neoprene due to the memory foam lining. They are also an option for horses that are allergic to neoprene.

Another factor in choosing the right set of boots for your horse is the type of closures. I will again cover the basics:

Buckle - Buckle closures stay done up very well but some horses can't tolerate those narrow straps. If the straps have many tightly-spaced holes, the boots will fit better than a pair with fewer, widely-spaced holes that might not correspond exactly to your horse's leg circumference.

Tab/Stud closures - These boots have tabs with keyhole-shaped holes that hook over metal studs on the boot. While these closures tend to stay on very well, I have found them not to fit most horses as well as I would like. There are usually only three different tightness options and the boots will be too tight or too loose if your horse is not one of those three sizes!

Velcro - Velcro on elastic is, in my option, the best in terms of fitting because there are no set sizes. The downside to using velcro is that it can come undone more easily than the other closures, especially in muddy conditions or on horses with a lot of knee action. If your horse tends to lose boots, sometimes wrapping Vetrap or tape once fairly loosely around the boot is enough to keep the velcro secure. Velcro straps come in different widths; the elastic is thin enough that it really doesn't matter how much of the leg they cover.

Entering Flat Classes Only

2010-04-28T23:23:00.000-04:00

If your horse is green or if you aren't yet comfortable jumping around a course, you might be tempted to go to a horse show and enter only the flat classes. Are you allowed to do this?

The answer is: it depends!

If you are looking at hunter divisions, you are not allowed to enter the under saddle class if the horse has not completed at least one course over fences in that division. This means that someone, not necessarily you, must take the horse in a minimum of one class in that division before you can ride on the flat. Because hunters are judged on the horse, the rider for the over fences does not need to be the same as the rider for the flat, provided both riders meet the criteria for that division. The Amateur Owner division is a special exception because riders who have multiple horses in the division may use another amateur to show any extra horses on the flat.

ARTICLE G316 OTHER HUNTER CLASSES
1. Hunter under saddle: to be shown at a walk, trot and canter both ways of the ring; at least eight horses, at the judge's discretion, if available, may be required to gallop one way in the ring but never more than eight at one time (pre-green and green hunters not to gallop). Light contact with the horse's mouth is permissible. In order to maintain awards, horses must compete and complete the course in at least one over fences class in their respective division. Hunter under saddle classes must never be the first class of a division.

If you are looking at the equitation divisions, you are allowed to enter a flat class without entering the jumping class in the same division.

If you are looking at doing flat classes only, keep in mind that equitation divisions restrict cross-entry into other equitation divisions because of the division by age or experience. You will be restricted to a single equitation on the flat class per horse show.

If you would like to enter multiple flat classes at a horse show without doing any jumping, you will have to either look for a show that offers a hack division or have another rider take your horse over fences in order to qualify for a hunter under saddle class.

Starting Your Jumper Course

2010-04-27T23:55:00.000-04:00

There is a certain procedure that has to be followed before you begin jumping your course in the jumper ring.

You must not begin your course until the judge has rung the bell (or whistle, or buzzer, etc.). This can occur at any time after you have entered the ring; sometimes it is immediate and at other times it can take several minutes. Generally, on schooling days that are not expected to run long, the judge will allow the competitors a minute or two to introduce their horses to the ring before ringing the bell. If the horse before you has had several rails down, you can expect to have some time to ride around the ring while the jump crew goes to work. If the previous rider has gone clear, expect to hear the bell almost immediately.

Once you have heard the bell rung a single time, you have 45 seconds to reach the start timers. The start timers will be accompanied by flagged markers that read 'Start' or 'Finish' (in some cases they might just read 'S' or 'F'). Make sure that the white flag is on your left and the red flag is on your right.

45 seconds is actually a lot of time when you think about it - your entire round, going around the ring several times, is generally between 60 and 80 seconds. Don't rush yourself to get between those start timers, but do make sure that you don't go over your 45 seconds because if you do, the time of your round will start before you reach the timers!

As you walk your course, make a plan for what you will do with your 45+ seconds. There is time to show your horse at least one spooky jump before you get going, and planning a specific path will allow you to maximize what you can show your horse in that time period.

If you ever hear the bell rung multiple times or for an extended time, it means that you should stop what you're doing. It is the signal that you have been eliminated, but it can also be used when you're starting your course to ask you to stop and wait. Sometimes, for example, the jump crew forgets to reset a jump and the judge will ring the bell without noticing it and then have to stop you from starting on course. In such a case, wait for the bell to be rung a single time before restarting.

Here are the official Equine Canada rules that apply to the beginning of a jumper course:

FEI ARTICLE 203 BELL
1. The bell is used to communicate with the competitors. One of the members of the Ground Jury is in charge of the bell and responsible for its use. The bell is used:
1.1. to give permission to the competitors to enter the arena when the course is ready for their inspection (202.1) and to signal that the inspection time is over;
1.2. to give the signal to start; after the bell has been rung, the competitor must cross the starting line in the correct direction within 45 seconds; the automatic timing equipment must show a count down from 45 seconds on the scoreboard or other display beside the arena, clearly visible for the competitor. If the competitor has not crossed the starting line in the correct direction when the 45 seconds expire, the time of the round will start at that moment. Disobediences, falls etc. occurring between the signal to start and the moment the competitor crosses the starting line in the correct direction, are not penalized. After the bell has rung, crossing the starting line in the correct direction for a second time before jumping the first obstacle is counted as a disobedience.
However, under special circumstances, the Ground Jury has the right not to activate the start or to cancel the starting procedure, give a new signal to start and restart the count-down.
1.3. to stop a competitor for any reason or following an unforeseen incident and to signal to him to continue his round after an interruption (233);
1.4. to indicate to him that an obstacle knocked down following a disobedience has been replaced (233);
1.5. to indicate by prolonged and repeated ringing that the competitor has been eliminated.
2. If the competitor does not obey the signal to stop, he may be eliminated at the discretion of the Ground Jury (240.4.5) except where specifically provided for under article 233.2).
3. If, after an interruption, the competitor restarts and jumps or attempts to jump without waiting for the bell to ring, he will be eliminated (240.3.14).

FEI ARTICLE 204 COURSE AND MEASURING
[...]
9. The starting and finishing lines may not be more than 15 m or less than 6 m from the first and last obstacle. These two lines must each be marked with an entirely red flag on the right and an entirely white flag on the left. The start line and finish line must also be marked with markers with the letters S (= Start) and F (= Finish).

Voluntary Withdrawal

2010-04-26T00:12:00.000-04:00

There are some days when the worst thing for you and your horse to do is to continue on course. It could be that your horse has pulled a shoe, isn't listening to you, feels off or is just over-faced. In any of those cases, you may pull up while on course and withdraw yourself voluntarily from the competition.

If you choose to retire while on course, your will not be given a score and you will therefore not place in that class. If you choose to retire after you have completed the first round of a jumper class, you may still place in the class if there is a limited number of horses in the jump-off. Following EC rules, you will be placed behind any riders who attempt the course (including those who are eliminated during the jump-off):

FEI ARTICLE 247 ELIMINATION OR WITHDRAWAL FROM A JUMP-OFF
1. A competitor who is eliminated in a jump-off will be placed last of the competitors who have completed the jump-off.
2. A competitor, who with the permission of the Ground Jury withdraws from a jump-off, must always be placed after a competitor eliminated or who retires for a valid reason on the course. Competitors, who retire for no valid reason or who have themselves eliminated on purpose are placed equal with competitors, who have withdrawn from the same jump-off.
3. If before a deciding jump-off, two or more competitors decline to take part in the jump-off, the Ground Jury will decide whether this refusal can be accepted or must be rejected. If the Ground Jury accepts the refusal, the Organizing Committee will award the trophy by lot and the prize money will be added together and shared equally between the competitors. If the Ground Jury's instruction to continue is not followed by competitors, no trophy will be awarded and the competitors will each only receive the prize money and the lowest placing for which they would have jumped-off.

Make sure that you explain the situation to the ingate person before leaving the area, however, to make sure that you will be allowed to withdraw yourself from the jump-off:

FEI ARTICLE 241 DISQUALIFICATIONS
1. Disqualification means that a competitor and his horse or horses may take no further part in a competition or in any other competition of the event.
2. The Ground Jury may disqualify a competitor in the following cases:
[...]
2.5. retiring, before a jump-off, without permission of the Ground Jury or without valid reason;

If you would like to retire while on course, you must let the judge know what you are doing. First, bring your horse down to a walk or halt. Look towards the judge's booth and either tip your helmet and/or put your reins in one hand and raise your free arm. The judge will interpret these signals as a voluntary withdrawal and you can then walk out of the ring.

Permitted Medications

2010-04-25T00:06:00.001-04:00

Drug testing is required at all Equine Canada-sanctioned competitions, so to avoid a positive test you should familiarize yourself with the rules well ahead of your first horse show.

The full Canadian rules are available in the General Rulebook under Equine Medications Control (Chapter 11). If you are not from Canada, check your national federation's website or rulebook for the permitted medications in your country. The American rules are available here.

Here are the most important parts of the EC rules for you to know:

ARTICLE A1003 PERMITTED MEDICATIONS
Permitted Medications may be present in a horse during an EC-sanctioned competition.
1. Permitted Medications are the following:
a) non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs approved for use in Canada for horses: flunixin meglumine, ketoprofen, phenylbutazone, vedoprofen or acetylsalicylic acid, subject to the restrictions below.
b) clenbuterol*
c) the anti-ulcer medications: cimetidine, ranitidine, or omeprazole
Please note that some Permitted Medications can alter the elimination guidelines contained in the Schedule of Drugs.

2. Only one non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug may be administered. If more than one non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug is found in any sample, the test will be deemed positive. Samples found to contain a permitted medication may be subjected to quantitative testing.
3. Restrictions relating to permitted medication are as follows:
a) The maximum permissible plasma or serum concentration of flunixin is 1.0 microgram per millilitre.
b) The maximum permissible plasma or serum concentration of phenylbutazone is 15.0 micrograms per millilitre.
4. The rules of certain divisions/breed sports are more restrictive and in some cases allow no drugs or medications. See discipline/breed sport rules.

ARTICLE A1004 DRUGS
1. A drug is any substance included in the Schedule to Chapter 10, as the Schedule may be updated and revised from time to time.
2. Persons Responsible, veterinarians, owners, trainers and riders are cautioned against the use of medicinal preparations, tonics, pastes, feeds, supplements, neutraceuticals or herbal products of any kind, the ingredients and quantitative analysis of which are not specifically known, as they may contain a drug whose use in competition is not permitted.

ARTICLE A1006 EXAMINATION, SAMPLE COLLECTION AND TESTING
2. On the recommendation of the chair or the chair’s delegate, the technician or the licensed veterinarian may select for sample collection and testing any horse entered in any class at an EC-sanctioned competition, including any horse withdrawn by an exhibitor within 24 hours prior to a class for which it had been entered, while the horse is on the competition grounds.
4. Where a horse is selected to undergo sample collection and drug testing and the Person Responsible has been so notified, the Person Responsible shall take the horse to the area designated for sample collection at the time and in the manner indicated. If a Person Responsible is unable to attend the sample collection session he or she must designate a representative to attend. The Person Responsible, or the representative, must witness the collection of the official sample, witness the sealing of the official sample container and sign the documentation that accompanies the official sample to the official laboratory. The absence of the Person Responsible, or a representative, shall constitute a waiver of any objection to the Page 44 2010 Rules of Equine Canada Section A identification of any horse tested and the manner in which the official sample was collected, sealed and shipped to the official laboratory.

SCHEDULE OF DRUGS THAT ELICIT A POSITIVE RESPONSE
Part 1
Any substance and any preparation, metabolite, derivative, isomer and salt of the substance,
(a) that is labelled for veterinary use in Canada under the Food and Drug Regulations during a period of 240 days, calculated from the day on which the drug was assigned a drug identification number (D.I.N.) under those Regulations;
(b) that is not labelled for veterinary use in Canada under the Food and Drug Regulations (this includes all human drugs and all foreign-available veterinary products);
(c) that interferes with an analysis for any drug included in this Schedule; or
(d) that is included in the following list (which includes substances that are labelled for veterinary use in Canada):
Acepromazine
Acetanilide
Aconite
Aconitine
Alphadolone
Alphaxalone
Aminophylline
Antipyrine
Arecoline
Atipamezole
Atropine
Azaperone
Belladonna
Benazepril
Benzocaine
betamethasone
Boldenone
Butacaine
Butorphanol
Caffeine
Camphor
Carbachol
Carfentanil
Carprofen
Chloral Hydrate
Chlorpheniramine
Clomipramine
Cromoglycate
Dembrexine
Deracoxib
Desoxycortacosterone
Detomidine
Dexamethasone
Dibucaine
Diethylstilbestrol
Digitalis
Digitoxin
Digoxin
Dimethylsulfoxide
Diphemanil
Diprenorphine
Dipyrone
Doxapram
Droperidol
Enalapril
Ephedrine
Epinephrine
Ergonovine
Etorphine
Fentanyl
Flumethasone
Flucinolone acetonide
Fomepizole
Furosemide
Guaifenesin
Hydrochlorothiazide
Hyoscine
Hyoscyamine
isoflupredone
Isopropamide
Ketamine
Ketanserine
Lidocaine
Lobelia
Lobeline
Mebezonium
Meclofenamic acid
Medetomidine
Meloxicam
Mepivacaine
Meperidine (Demerol)
Methapyrilene
Methotrimeprazine
Methscopolamine
Methylprednisolone
Methyl salicylate
Methyltestosterone
Metomidate
Naloxone
Nandrolone
Neostigmine
Nicotine
Nikethamide
Nux Vomica
Procaine Penicillin G
Pentazocine
Pentobarbital
Pentoxifylline
Phenacaine
Pheniramine
Phenothiazine
Phenylephrine
Pimobendan
Prednisolone
Prednisone
Primidone
Prochlorperazine
Propionylpromazine
Propofol
Pyrilamine
Quinine
Ractopamine
Romifidine
Salicylamide
Scopolamine
Secobarbital
Selegiline
Sputolysin
stanozolol
Strychnine
Tetracaine
Theophylline
Thiamylal
Thiopental
Tobacco
Tolazoline
Tolfenamic acid
Trenbolone
Triamcinolone
Tricaine
Trichormethiazide
Trimeprazine
Tripelennamine
Xylazine
Yohimbine
Zeranol

Part 2
Drug
Salicylic acid Quantitative limit – 750 ug/mL in urine and 6.5 ug/mL in blood

Part 3
Procaine Quantitative Limit 0.025 ug/ml in blood

To summarize:

Banamine (flunixin meglumine) and bute (phenylbutazone) are allowed but only in small amounts. Ask your veterinarian how much you can give per day of the particular container that you are using. One very important point is that you cannot combine NSAIDs. This means that you can give your horse bute or banamine, but never both at the same time. For this reason, it's very important to make sure that there is no contamination of feed because there are stories of horses who have tested positive after eating out of a feed tub that used to contain a prohibited drug. If you are giving your horse banamine at a horse show, make sure that there is no way for your horse to eat any bute at the same show!

Always check the ingredients of any supplement that you feed to make sure that it contains no prohibited substances. Certain calming supplements, for example, will test.

It's always a good idea to ask your veterinarian for an estimated withdrawal time on any medication that you plan on using. That will allow you to stop certain medications far enough before the horse show to avoid a positive test. It will also be very important if your horse has been on bute and you would like to give your horse a shot of banamine for a mild colic before the show.

If your horse is selected for drug testing, the tester will stay with you from the time you leave the show ring until you reach the testing area, which should be a nice, fluffy stall to encourage the horse to urinate. If your horse will not urinate, a blood sample can be taken instead.

*Clenbuterol (Ventipulmin) is no longer permitted at EC-sanctioned competitions.

The Muck Heap

2010-04-23T23:44:00.000-04:00

If you're stabling at a horse show, you will need to find out where the muck heaps are located. It doesn't seem like a big deal, but dumping your wheelbarrow in the wrong spot can block pathways, bother other barns or even prevent the manure from being removed if it's in an area that tractors can't access.

Step number one for finding a muck heap is to look for signs. Some shows will hammer signposts into the ground where they want you to dump and you're safe as long as you use a signed area.

Muck heaps are sometimes contained within walled wooden or concrete structures or metal containers, which makes them easy to find. Often, however, the muck heaps will just be on an inconspicuous open spot of ground.

Unfortunately, many shows don't bother with signage. In such a case, it's best to watch where other grooms in your stabling area go to. Keep in mind that some people will disregard the official muck heaps and make their own for convenience' sake, so make sure that the location seems reasonable before dumping your own wheelbarrow there.

Here's a short checklist to run through to make sure that you're in the right place:

Is it in the middle of a road or aisle? If so, chances are it's just someone's lazy dumping spot rather than the official location. Dumping there will make it difficult for people to get by and to clean up.
Is there tractor access? If the only access is very narrow, chances are the tractor won't be able to get in there to clean it up.
How close is it to other barns? This one is tough because sometimes the official muck heaps will spread out to within a few feet of nearby stalls if they aren't compacted often enough (which is one very good reason to dump your wheelbarrow as deep into the pile as you can get). If the muck heap is on someone's doorstep, you probably shouldn't add to that one, anyway!

If you're still not sure whether you're dumping in the right place, keep your ears open for announcements made to the stabling area because the show office will usually try to correct any bad muck heap situations that way.

Getting Your White Socks Their Whitest

2010-04-22T22:49:00.000-04:00

White socks look lovely when they're perfectly clean, but how can you make your horse's dirty socks look that good and stay that way?

Clip them: Long hair, which in this instance includes summer-length hair, makes it difficult to clean the socks by trapping dirt under a thick pile of hair. Clipping the hair short removes old stains and makes it easier to get every last bit of dirt out. It also prevents dirt from getting trapped in the clean socks during your warm-up. Make sure that you clip them evenly because vertical lines will be quite visible on a very clean sock.
Clean them: Do this on the day of your class to avoid overnight staining (you can wrap the legs to avoid higher stains if you must do it ahead of time). For best results, use a shampoo made specifically for white hair. Wet each sock thoroughly using a hose and then spread a generous amount of shampoo over all of the white. Scrub the shampoo into every inch of each sock using your fingertips, then rinse it off with the hose.
Clean them again: Check each sock over after you've rinsed all of the shampoo off. If they're clean, they should look almost pink. Heavily-stained areas will often require a second scrubbing with more shampoo (you only have to re-clean the spots that still look dirty).
Dry them: Use your hands to scrape as much water off as you can (including any water above the socks that could drip down), then take a clean, dry towel and rub them to remove more water.
Keep the horse on clean ground: Try to avoid putting the horse immediately back in its stall. Unless all of the shavings have just been put in the stall and the base is hard and clean, there will be some dirt in the stall that can stick to damp legs. If you have a clean cross-tie area, leave the horse there for a few minutes.
Protect them: Just as the socks are at the point of almost being dry, I like to spray them with ShowSheen. I find that this helps to repel dirt and keep the socks white. Make sure that the ShowSheen is dry before the horse goes near any dirt since it will act like water and attract dust when wet.
Optional: Some people like to apply baby powder or cornstarch to the socks to make them look even whiter. I don't feel that this is necessary if you've done your job and gotten them perfectly clean to begin with, but it's something to think about if you have difficulties with keeping white socks clean while you warm up.

Hay and Shavings: How Much Do You Need?

2010-04-21T00:13:00.000-04:00

If you've never stabled away from home before, you might be wondering how many bags or bales of shavings and hay to pack or order.

As far as shavings go, you will have to have enough to bed the stall down initially and then more to replace the dirty bedding. How many bags you will require will depend on the base of the stall and how deep you like to bed. On grass or dirt, you can use fewer bags because the ground will soften as the horse moves around in the stall. On cement or asphalt, you will need to better deeper in order to create a base and prevent scrapes.

My general rule of thumb for packing or ordering shavings is about four bags per stall to begin with. I will usually put three bags in each stall and then make a decision a few hours later about whether to add another (depending on the base of the stall and the size/fluffiness of those bags of shavings). I usually estimate that I'll need to add in another third to half of a bag to each stall each day after mucking out.

As far as hay goes, it will depend on the size and quality of the bales, as well as how easy or difficult your horse is to keep. I find that estimating about 3/4 of a bale per horse per day works quite well, but it's best if you keep track of how much you use at home and then bring a bit more than that, just in case. One of the most convenient aspects of ordering from the show is that you can underestimate the amount and then just order more later!

Jumper Tack: Hackamores

2010-04-20T00:28:00.000-04:00

A hackamore is an alternative to a bit that uses pressure on the horse's nose instead of pressure on the mouth. They can be quite useful on horses with sensitive mouths, and the odd horse will actually respond better to a hackamore than to a bit. Hackamores do not, in general, offer the same degree of precision as a bit does.

Hackamores and other bitless bridles are not permitted in the hunter or equitation rings, so you may only use them in jumper classes.

Hackamores are generally not used with nosebands because of their location on the horse's face.

Some horses are extremely sensitive to the pressure exerted by a hackamore while others can ignore it quite easily. Be careful with these horses as it is all too easy to maintain a heavy pressure on the nose when riding them, and this can restrict breathing or bruise the nose. Adjust the hackamore as high as you can to avoid restricting breathing or damaging cartilage (basically put it in the highest location at which your horse will still listen to it).

There are two types of hackamore that are seen in the jumper ring:

Jumping hackamore - The jumping hackamore looks quite similar to a regular cavesson noseband. It is made of very stiff leather and has attachment rings for the reins right on the cavesson. There are no shanks to create leverage, so in the right hands it is very mild.

Mechanical hackamore - The mechanical hackamore differs from the jumping hackamore in that it has shanks to produce leverage. The piece over the nose can be made of various materials (the material will, in part, determine the severity) and the curb strap can be made of either metal chain or leather (leather is milder). The length of the shanks will also alter the severity, with longer shanks exerting more leverage for increased stopping power.

Hunter Tack: Cavesson Noseband

2010-04-19T00:55:00.000-04:00

The cavesson noseband is the only noseband that you are allowed to use in the hunter ring. Since there is no option regarding its use, it might not seem very important. How you adjust the noseband can, however, change the look of your horse's head.

Adjusting the cavesson so that it sits too low will make your horse's head look longer than it really is. The longer the head, the coarser the horse will generally look.

My rule of thumb is to adjust the cavesson noseband so that it's about two fingers width below the jaw bone. Depending on the horse's conformation, it might need to go up or down a hole from there to make it look just right.

This photo is an excellent example of a cavesson that is set too low on the horse's head. The long, empty distance between this horse's eye and the noseband makes the head look even longer than it really is. There is room for it to go up at least a couple of holes before it reaches the ideal position.

This is a very different horse from the first one. This horse actually has a small head, but the low cavesson still manages to make it look bigger than it actually is. The distance from the horse's eye to the cavesson is much longer than the distance from the cavesson to the end of its nose. The result is that the horse's head looks out of proportion. This can be fixed easily by moving the noseband up a couple of holes so that it sits closer to the jaw bone.

You can compare the above photos to these next photos which have correctly adjusted cavesson nosebands, sitting right below the jaw bone:

Both heads look in proportion and complement the overall picture of the horse rather than detract from it.

Using Studs

2010-04-17T00:22:00.000-04:00

Some horses go well with the added traction of studs (little cleats that screw into horse shoes) while others are happier on good footing without them. The decision to use them in the show ring should be made based on the advice of your coach, taking into account the footing, your horse's movement, your horse's confidence and other factors.

The key to using studs is to be prepared. That means having your horse shod with stud holes in all of the shoes. Some horses are able to compete perfectly well barefoot, but if you choose not to use shoes, you will need to control the footing. I have seen horses slip and fall while competing barefoot on damp grass and I do not wish that upon anyone. If you compete only on sand, you will probably be okay going barefoot. If there are any shows on grass, however, be prepared to scratch for the day if the footing looks less than ideal.

I always trailer without studs in and then make decisions about using them when I get to the horse show. This keeps the horse safe on the trailer because he won't step on himself with the studs, and it also allows me to make a more informed decision about which studs to use by seeing and walking on the footing first.

It's a good idea to always bring a stud kit along with you to every show, whether you think you will need them or not. It's not always easy to predict bad footing and it doesn't hurt to bring them along just in case. You don't need to have every stud imaginable in your kit; having a few different size choices should allow you to get by in most situations. Make sure that your wrench fits all of your studs and bring along a cleaning tool (I like a wire brush and nail) and a T-tap to re-thread the holes if needed.

If you have never used studs before, it's a good idea to practice ahead of time since it requires a certain amount of technique and a good deal of coordination that are difficult to achieve the first time!

On-Site Farrier

2010-04-16T00:12:00.000-04:00

Imagine that, as you're warming up for your class, you feel your horse pull a shoe. Does this mean that your show day is over?

Thankfully, 'A' circuit shows have at least one on-site farrier for shoeing emergencies such as these. If you can find the shoe and bring it with you to the farrier, you should be back in action in no time. If you can't find the shoe, you will have to spend more time at the farrier, but you still have a chance of being able to return to your class before it finishes.

On-site farriers are not limited to the 'A' circuit. Some farriers do attend 'B' circuit and schooling shows but you cannot generally assume that there will be a farrier at those shows.

The prize list for an 'A' circuit show will usually list the name of the on-site farrier on the same page as the officials. To find out where the farrier is actually located on the show grounds, ask the show office. Sometimes they use a special tent, sometimes they use a regular tent stall and sometimes they use an aisle-way or grooming area in a permanent barn. To avoid wandering around the horse show for hours looking for him, it's best just to ask!

In addition to replacing lost shoes, the on-site farrier can also drill threaded holes into your horse's shoes for studs (it's best to have your regular farrier put stud holes in your horse's shoes to avoid such emergency farrier visits). He can also put new shoes all around on your horse or do a reset, but beware that most farriers will charge a premium for regular farrier work done at a horse show. In some cases, having your horse's feet done at a show can give you the opportunity to use a particularly good farrier who does not travel to your area, so you must weigh the pros and cons.

Grooming For Yourself

2010-04-15T00:25:00.000-04:00

For those of us who show on a tight budget, hiring someone to groom for you is not always feasible and it's not always possible to have a friend help you out. Is it possible to do everything yourself?

The answer is a definite yes! It will be tough, and you and your horse might not end up looking as spotless as you might like, but you can get away with doing everything yourself if you work hard and plan ahead.

Hold your horses

If you ride in the jumpers, you will probably have more problems with timing than you would in the hunters because you need to walk your jumper courses. On days when the order of go is sign-in rather than posted, this isn't much of a problem. You will learn how much time you need to get ready after walking the course and put yourself later in the order to accommodate that. If your horse doesn't roll in tack, you can often put everything on except the bridle while you go and walk so that there is less to do when you get back.

When it comes to posted order, you are likely to run into the occasional problem. Odds are that you will sometimes be put near the beginning of the order, requiring you and your horse to be at the ring and ready to go before the course walk. If you do have a friend who is willing to come out every so often to help you, ask him to come out on the days when you are likely to be under posted order so that he will be available to hold your horse. You can also ask other riders from your barn who show in other divisions to hold your horse for a few minutes. One of the least stressful ways of dealing with going early in a posted order is to check whether any of the earlier classes in the day are using the same course as yours. If you can walk it ahead of time, you can ride your horse during your own class's course walk.

Keeping clean

One of the most difficult parts of grooming for yourself is not getting dirty! When you're doing stalls, bathing and grooming your horse, you're bound to get some dirt on your clothes. The obvious solution is to change into your show clothes at the very last minute, but this isn't always possible. If you can, do the dirty chores early in the day when you can wear jeans. This includes bathing and grooming your horse. Hopefully your horse will stay clean until your class and then all you will have to do is pass a towel over him to remove dust, keeping your clean breeches free of flying dirt and hair! Some riders wear sweat pants over their breeches to keep them clean, but that can get hot in the summer.

I suggest not putting your field boots on until the very last minute. I put mine on just before I bridle my horse. Walking around in a stall will put dust on your boots, so minimizing that will keep those boots as shiny as possible! Try to have a towel waiting near the mounting block so that you can give the lower part of your boots a quick wipe right before you get on. It's always a good idea to clean and polish your boots during a quiet part of the day so that you have one less thing to worry about when getting ready for your class.

I also keep my jacket off until the last minute, usually right after I put the bridle on (as long as I have somewhere clean to put it near the stall). If you're grooming for yourself, you probably won't have the luxury of having someone hold your jacket for you while you warm up.

Your horse

Luckily, horses tend to stay pretty clean in the barn. I find that if I groom all of the horses first thing in the morning, most of them don't need much more of a grooming before they head out to the show ring. I always run a towel over them before tacking up, though, because a lot of dust gets kicked up in the barn.

The earlier you can oil your horse's hooves, the better it will stay on. Dried hoof oil won't attract as much dirt as wet hoof oil and therefore won't need to be re-applied as frequently. This is easiest if you have some sort of grooming stall or cross-tie area where your horse can stand on clean ground.

If your coach is willing, hand him or her a towel before heading off to the ring so that they can give your horse a quick cleaning at the ingate. Make sure that you always apply plenty of fly spray at the barn since there won't be anyone at the show ring to put more on if the flies are worse than expected.

Your warm-up

Before going to your first horse show, make sure that your coach is comfortable setting jumps alone in the warm-up ring. Some coaches like having one or more grooms to do that dirty work, so it's best to know ahead of time what will be expected. A considerate coach should be more than willing to set the jumps unaided.

Grooming for yourself is tough work. The days will be long (the professional grooms will give the morning feed between 6 and 7 am and your horse will expect to be fed then, too) and you will need to be very organized, but don't feel that you need to hire a groom. You can do it!

Jumper Course Diagrams

2010-04-14T00:08:00.001-04:00

Understanding the course diagram is very important because it tells you how the class will be judged as well as which jumps you should take. Today I will walk you through a typical course diagram and explain what everything means.

The course diagram is a single piece of paper that is posted beside the ingate at least half an hour before the start of the class. Most of the paper will be taken up by a diagram of the ring, showing all of the jumps. The jumps that will be used in the class are numbered and have arrows indicating the direction in which they are to be jumped.

The rest of the space on the page will be devoted to a list of information, which should include most or all of the following:

Class name: This lets you know that you're looking at the correct course diagram.

Article: This tells you how the course will be judged. Examples include FEI ARTICLE 236 TABLE A and FEI ARTICLE 239 TABLE C. Check the rule book of your national federation to learn the names and descriptions of each article.

Course length:  This will be a distance in metres, measured by the course designer walking an ideal track around the course with a measuring wheel.

Speed: This is the speed that the time allowed will be based on, usually around 350 m/min.

Height:  The height at which the course is set.

First round:  The numbers of the jumps in the first round, such as 1-13.

Time allowed: In seconds, it is calculated based on the course length and the speed. It can be adjusted after the first three riders in the class have gone, so pay attention for any changes. Going over it will result in time faults.

Time limit: This is the maximum time that you may take to get around the course before you will be eliminated.

Jump-off or second round:  This section will list the jumps, in order, that constitute the jump-off. An example would be 1-3-11a-11b-12-6-13.

Jump-off length:  This is the length, in metres, of the jump-off course.

Jump-off time allowed:  This is the time allowed, in seconds, of the jump-off course as calculated by the distance and the speed. Going over it will result in time faults.

Jump-off time limit:  This is the maximum time allowed before elimination from the jump-off.

Course designer: The name of the course designer, which you should take note of so that you can remember that course designer's style when preparing for the next show that they will be at!

Hay and Shavings

2010-04-12T23:34:00.000-04:00

If you're staying overnight at a horse show, you might want to order hay and shavings from the show office rather than packing them in your horse trailer, taking up room that you might not have to spare. Ordering from the show is also convenient because you can order small amounts every couple of days rather than having to find somewhere to store one or two weeks' worth of hay and shavings.

Keep in mind that there will be a significant mark-up on the products sold at the horse show. Expect for hay and shavings to cost at least $6 to $8 per bale/bag.

When you order from the horse show, your hay and/or shavings will be delivered right to your stalls. If you want to have them waiting for you when you arrive at the horse show, make sure that you order them ahead of time on the stall request form (there should be a section for it).

Once you're at the show, you can order additional hay or shavings at the show office. Find the hay and shavings order pad (different shows use different forms so it's best to ask the secretary for it) and fill it out with how many bales of hay or bags of shavings you would like, the date and your barn's name (make sure that it is the same name that is on the stabling map). If your tent or barn has an identifying number or letter, include that on the order form to make things easier for the delivery person. If the order is for a specific few horses rather than the entire barn, mark those horses' names on the form so that only they will be charged for them.

Once you have filled out the form, ask the secretary what you should do with it. Usually, there will be two copies. One will go to the secretary so that the order can be put on your bill. The other copy is for the delivery person to reference. At some shows, the secretary will take care of both copies while at others you will need to attach the second copy to something like a clipboard. Ask the secretary what the show's policy is so that your order doesn't go missing!

If you order late in day, you might not receive your hay and shavings until the next day, so try to keep on top of things in order not to run out before the delivery. The show office will often have a policy posted about delivery hours.

Bath Time

2010-04-11T23:56:00.000-04:00

If you own a grey horse or a horse with any white on its body, you will have to spend a lot more time cleaning it than you would if you owned any other colour! Unfortunately, it is all too easy to tell when a white-haired horse is anything but perfectly clean and entering the show ring with a yellow-tinged horse will give the judge a negative first impression of you.

Thankfully, cleaning a grey horse is far from difficult and will just take a bit of extra time and scrubbing.

Would you believe that the very clean horse in the photo above got that way through a shampoo bath alone? It doesn't take any special tricks!

Preferably, you will bath your grey horse the morning of the show rather than the night before. If you bath the day before, you will end up with some dirt on the coat even if you blanket most of the horse. Bathing the morning of the show ensures that your horse will be as clean as possible, unless you are unlucky enough to have your horse lie down after its bath!

I like to use a whitening shampoo on grey horses. There are lots of different kinds out there and which one you use will just depend on personal preference.

To give a good shampoo bath, first get the horse completely wet using a hose. If your horse has a yellowed tail, massage some shampoo straight from the bottle into the tail and let it sit while you bath the rest of the horse. Pour some shampoo into a bucket and then fill the bucket with water. Use a sponge to cover the horse with soapy water, rubbing it in as you go. Once you have covered the entire horse (how much of the head you can do will depend on the horse), use the hose to rinse all of the soap off, making sure to rinse it out of the tail, too. Once you have rinsed everything off, check the horse over for any stubborn stains (the legs and belly tend to be the worst). If you find any, pour some shampoo straight from the bottle into your hands and scrub it into those areas.

If it is cool out, bring along a cooler along to the wash rack and put it on your horse right after the bath to keep him warm.

Towel off the legs and try to let them dry as much as possible before putting the horse in a dirty stall. Wet legs will attract dirt!

If your horse lies down after his bath and you don't have time to give him another one, you can remove the dirty spots in a few different ways. One option is to wet the area with a sponge and then scrub in a drop of shampoo before rinsing it off with the same wet sponge. Some grooms swear by diluted alcohol for removing spots, while others use a commercial spot-remover. Figure out what works best for you and stick with it!

That's all that you need to do to make your horse sparkling white! There's no secret product or method - clean hair is clean hair!

Your Ringside Kit

2010-04-09T23:39:00.000-04:00

If you will be paying a professional groom to help you at the horse shows, you don't really have to worry about what you will need to have ringside. If you are having a friend help you or if you will be grooming for someone else, it's important to prepare a ringside kit to be brought to the warm-up and show rings.

Obviously, what you decide to include in that kit will depend on your own needs and preferences. I will tell you today what I like to bring in order to give you some ideas.

You can use whatever container you'd like to pack things in. Small buckets, bags and grooming totes all work well.

Here is a basic list of what you might want to include:

A towel or two: This is the item that I use the most and never go to the ring without. The towel provides the finishing touch as the horse is about to enter the ring. First, wipe off the rider's boots to remove any slobber or splashed mud, and then run the towel over the horse to smooth the hair down and remove sweat, slobber and dirt. Be sure to wipe the horse's mouth, too, and bring a large enough towel so that you are always using a clean section.
A lead shank: Leather looks best, but anything that looks respectable will do. You can use it to lead a horse to and/or from the show ring, or use it for holding a horse for a course walk. You can lead a horse using the reins, but it's much easier and faster to just clip on with a lead shank, especially when the horse is wearing a running martingale.
Treats: A nice reward upon exiting the show ring for a job well done. If you plan on feeding any treats before the class, try to stick to white peppermints or anything else that won't create colourful slobber!
A stiff brush: This is very useful on muddy days when there is just too much dirt on the legs for a towel to handle. Brush the mud off and then finish with a towel.
Spurs: If you aren't using spurs, you might want to bring a pair along anyway so that they're at the ring if you need them. If you already have spurs on, bringing along a smaller or larger pair can be handy if your warm-up doesn't go as planned.
A whip: If you don't start off with one, consider bringing one just in case you need it. Some riders like to have a couple of different sizes available, too.
Fly spray: It can come off with sweat so some horses will require a second application. Horses not wearing fly veils might need an extra spray near the ears if the flies are worse than expected by the ring.
Hoof oil: Try to do one coat as you're tacking up (the more time it has to dry, the better it will stay on). For the best turnout, especially in the hunter ring, re-apply at the ingate.
Studs: Some riders like to have a stud kit at the ring in case there is an unexpected change in the footing. I, personally, don't like changing studs ringside, but it's something to consider if you do use them often.
A spray bottle of water and alcohol: Useful to clean the saddle area of hunters that will have to jog soon after competing.
A cooler: Put on the horse after competing on cold days or use it in the warm-up ring to make a spooky practice jump.
Any spare tack that you might want to use

Also remember to bring along anything that the rider might need to wear if he or she doesn't leave the stabling area fully dressed up. Check to make sure that the jacket and number are on to avoid having to run back to the barn for them later!

Warm-Up Jumps

2010-04-07T23:35:00.000-04:00

There are many rules dictating which warm-up jumps are legal and which are illegal. Familiarizing yourself with these rules ahead of time will allow you to formulate a warm-up plan without running the risk of having to use a different routine at the show.

There is an excellent document that I believe everyone should look at showing the FEI warm-up rules very clearly with photos: FEI warm-up rules

Equine Canada deviates slightly from these rules:

GENERAL- SCHOOLING RULES FOR HUNTER, EQUITATION AND JUMPERS
1. All EC-sanctioned competitions must use current FEI schooling rules as listed. Refer to Chapter 9, FEI Rules, Article 244 EXERCISE AND SCHOOLING AREAS AND PRACTICE OBSTACLES. These rules pertain to all hunter, equitation and jumper classes and divisions at all EC-sanctioned competitions. Note exceptions below.
2. The prize list must specify that FEI schooling rules will be in force.
3. Stewards will measure any obstacle or distance that appears to be in violation of the rules.
4. When two or more rings are operating simultaneously, the competition must have sufficient stewards to monitor all schooling/warm-up areas. Schooling/warm-up areas that cannot be closely monitored simultaneously MUST have a steward for each area. The additional steward(s) may be recorded.
5. Equine Canada exceptions to the FEI schooling rules at all EC-sanctioned competitions:
a. Use of coloured sheets over the take-off side or under a properly constructed obstacle is permitted.
b. Flags on fences in the schooling areas are at the discretion of competition management. Steward may request flags be used when the schooling area is congested.
c. In Equitation and Hunter competitions and schooling rings, plastic cups or FEI breakaway cups are required. Steel pins are not acceptable. See Article G116.
d. Boot and bandage checks are not mandatory; however a boot and bandage check may be performed at EC-sanctioned jumper competitions.
e. Hunter Schooling only: A ground rail may be used on both sides of an oxer. Top rails may not be offset.

Here are some of the main points to remember about warm-up jumps:

The lower tape on the standard is at 1.30m (4'3") and the higher tape is at 1.60m (5'3")
If a vertical or the front rail of an oxer is at 1.30m or higher, you must use two rails on the take-off side
Never use an offset oxer (back rail lower than the front rail)
You may not warm up over a jump that is over 10 cm (4 inches) higher than the maximum height of your class
If flags are used, always jump in the correct direction. You may switch the flags to reverse the direction of the jump if the steward allows it
If you use ground lines, you may not have one on the landing side only
If you use ground lines on both sides of the jump, the take-off side must be the same distance or further away from the jump as the landing side
At an EC-mentioned competition, you may drape a cooler or sheet over the take-off side of a jump

Trouble at the Ingate

2010-04-06T23:33:00.000-04:00

Some horses do not enter the show ring well. In such a case, you might be tempted just to take a run at it, but you need to be very careful around the ingate or you risk being eliminated or, worse, hurting someone!

It is forbidden to trot or canter through the ingate unless you have been given permission to do so (and even then, you must leave the ring at a walk). If you feel that you absolutely must trot or canter into the ring, inform the ingate person of it while you're still a couple of horses out. Not only will the ingate person be able to allow you to enter the ring at speed, but he or she will also make sure that the ingate area is kept clear for safety purposes.

As soon as you are on deck, start informing those around you that you have a difficult loader and ask them to clear the ingate area. In the interests of safety, do not attempt to enter the ring until the area is completely clear.

If you have a difficult loader but would like to take it more slowly, you can have someone on the ground lead you into the ring. One of the safest methods of doing this is to have the ground person loop a lead shank through one side of the bit and lead from that so that no unclipping will be required once the horse is in the ring; the shank is simply allowed to slip back through the bit. This also allows the ground person to keep some distance from the horse should anything go wrong.

Even if you do not plan on trotting or cantering your difficult horse into the ring, it's a good idea to inform the ingate that there might be a little scene when you attempt to go through the ingate. Again, tell everyone around you when you're on deck that it's time to clear the ingate to prevent anyone from getting hurt.

Some horses do better if they don't wait right at the ingate. If you plan on keeping your horse away until the last moment, make sure that you have someone on the ground at the ingate both to keep someone else from taking your spot and to keep the ingate clear.

The EC rule for entering and exiting the ring is the following:

ARTICLE G104 IN-GATE
In all classes, trotting or cantering through the in-gate without prior permission is forbidden. The penalty for contravening this rule is either a fine or elimination from the class, at the discretion of the judge. Under special circumstances, a steward or judge may give permission for a horse to trot into the ring, but not out of the ring.

Clipping

2010-04-05T23:11:00.000-04:00

While most horses are perfectly fine in the summer months with their natural summer coats, some horses grow too much of a coat to be comfortable while working hard in the heat. In such a case, doing a full body clip is the best way to go.

There are many different patterns out there, but only two are appropriate for the hunters, as well as for ideal jumper turnout. The two options are the full body clip and the full body clip with a saddle patch.

In the full body clip, all of the hair is clipped from the body, legs and all or most of the head. How much of the legs and head you will have to clip will depend on how long your horse's natural coat is. If it is not excessively long, you should be able to clip the cheeks and under the jaw, blending the clip in with the natural hair where the cheek pieces of the bridle sit. If your horse has a very hairy face, you might need to carefully clip the entire face in order to prevent it from becoming drenched with sweat.

If your horse has very hairy legs, you will probably need to clip all of the way down each of the legs. If the legs are not excessively hairy, you might be able to blend the clip in with the natural hair somewhere along the forearm. As long as you don't end up with a blunt line, it should work. Your horse's colour will also play a part in determining how far you will need to clip. If the clipped colour is very different from the natural colour, you might not be able to blend the two together. Bays, especially the darker ones, are generally easy to blend because of their black stockings.

If your horse has any white legs, clipping them will make them much easier to clean and keep white!

Some riders like to leave a saddle patch of longer hair on the horse's back to provide extra protection. If you choose to leave a saddle patch, make sure that it is small enough to fit under your show saddle pad without any of the longer hair showing. The patch is generally only under the seat of the saddle, rather than extending down under the flaps where the horse is likely to sweat. Keep in mind that this patch of hair will be visible if you need to remove your tack to jog in front of the judge.

If you have never clipped a horse before and you plan on showing, it is probably a good idea to hire a professional to clip your horse. Clipping is learned hands-on and even the best of beginners is likely to leave some unsightly lines after a first attempt. If you would like to learn how to clip, it would be best to learn either in the winter when you will not be showing or on friends' horses that will not be showing. When you're in the show ring, you want the judge to be focused on your round rather than on the quality of your clip job. The clip should look as much like a natural summer coat as possible and clip lines look anything but natural!

Option Jumps

2010-04-04T23:30:00.000-04:00

In some jumper classes, usually schooling or speed classes, the course designer might decide to include one or more option jumps. When there is an option jump, you may choose either option that is offered to you after weighing the pros and cons of each.

Why might there be an option jump? First, when it comes to speed, you might have a difficult but direct option and an easier but longer option. A more experienced horse and rider might choose the direct route while a less experienced horse and rider might decide to play it safe and take the slower route. The difficulty could be in the height, width or type of jump. A spooky jump such as a liverpool or a dry ditch could be used on the faster track while a straightforward oxer or vertical provides the safe option.

In a schooling class, including option jumps might allow the course designer to provide opportunities for the more advanced horses to school over open water or something similar without requiring everyone to jump it.

How will you know if there are options in your course? First, look on the course diagram to see if there are two jumps with the same number in the course. There should also be "option," written between them. When you walk the course, look for jumps near one another that are both flagged and have the same number.

What happens if you have a refusal or run-out at one of the options? You are allowed to take the other option for your second attempt, although you must wait for the initial jump to be reset if you have dislodged it.

Here is the official EC rule for option jumps:

FEI ARTICLE 215 ALTERNATIVE OBSTACLES AND JOKER

1. When in a competition two obstacles of the course carry the same number, the competitor has the choice of jumping either one of the obstacles:

1.1. if there is a refusal or run-out without a knock-down or displacing of the obstacle, at his next attempt the competitor is not obliged to jump the obstacle at which the refusal or run-out occurred. He may jump the obstacle of his choice;

1.2. if there is a refusal or run-out with a knock-down or displacing of the obstacle, he may only restart his round when the obstacle knocked down or displaced has been replaced and when the Ground Jury gives him the signal to start. He may then jump the obstacle of his choice;

2. Red and white flags must be placed at each of the elements of this alternative obstacle.

The Order of Go

2010-04-03T23:59:00.001-04:00

After your hours of preparation and your perfect warm-up, the last thing you want is to arrive at the ingate only to find out that there is a line of horses ahead of you and you'll have to wait half an hour for your turn! That's why we have orders of go. If you decide to get ready whenever you want, you risk not being able to go into the ring or, even worse, being eliminated for not following a posted order!

A posted order is a list of who goes when in the class, determined by the show office. Posted orders are generally used in the highest priority ring at the horse show. How faithfully the ingate follows that posted order will depend on the horse show and on the particular class. You won't be able to move around in a big grand prix, but in smaller classes you will sometimes be able to change your order if you have a good reason to (trainer conflict, rider conflict, etc.). If you absolutely will not be able to be in the ring for your spot, talk to the ingate ahead of time. The worst thing you can do is just not show up until later.

Classes like grand-prix, mini-prix, medals and hunter classics or derbies are generally run as posted order.

Sign-in orders are more casual orders of go that are created by the ingate person. Before your class starts, you will need to go speak to him or her to put yourself in the order. Riders can choose any spot they want out of whichever ones are left (it pays to put yourself in the order early in the day so that most of the spots will be open). There is more flexibility in this type of order since spots might need to be opened up for trainer conflicts, so you might not end up being called into the ring exactly where you signed up, but it should be pretty close.

How do you know whether your class will be run as a posted order or as a sign-in? The best way to find out is to ask the ingate person directly. There are, however, some clues that can give you a good idea before you ask. Check the exhibitor numbers on the class list (it should be posted at the ingate and at the show office). If those numbers are in increasing order, chances are that you're looking at a class list rather than a posted order. If those numbers are random, chances are that it's a posted order. Sometimes the office will make the class list look like a posted order anyway, just in case the show wants to run it that way, so it's a good idea to check with the ingate to make sure that you don't need to sign in. If there is a signature on the class list, it is most likely a posted order.

If you're riding in the hunters, you should familiarize yourself with some terminology before signing in. Because hunter classes are generally run in groups of two or three over fences at the same time, there is a difference between the number of 'trips' and the number of 'horses'. A 'trip' is a single class, whereas a 'horse' is two or three classes (depending on the schedule). Ask the ingate specifically whether you are putting yourself in the order at a number of trips or at a number of horses so that you can plan your time accordingly.

Jumpers don't need to worry about this since only one class is run at a time, therefore the number of rides is the same as the number of horses.

Walking the Lines

2010-04-02T00:53:00.001-04:00

If you plan on competing in the jumper ring, you will need to learn how to walk the lines in order to plan out your round. Walking the course will allow you to measure out the distance between two jumps to determine how many strides to put in the line, as well as what length of stride you will need.

If you have never walked a set distance before, start at home by marking out twelve feet on the floor (masking tape works well). If you want to be really accurate, put a little mark every three feet.

Now, place one heel on the tape at the very start of your twelve-foot line.

Take one big step forward with your other leg so that the heel lands on the three-foot marker.

Now continue walking so that your other heel lands on your six-foot marker, and continue like that until you have walked the full twelve feet. Keep walking back and forth down the line, making sure that your heels always land on the tape. Get the feel for how big that step is because you will be using those three-foot steps to make your measurements in the show ring.

Once you're consistently walking the line correctly at home, try the same thing in a sand ring at the barn. Place two rails twelve feet apart on the ground and walk between them until you are consistently getting four even steps. You should start by placing your heel up against the first rail and finish by stepping over the second rail with your heel just touching it. Measuring from heel to heel gives you a much more accurate measurement than using other parts of your foot. Chances are that you will need to make a slightly bigger effort when walking in sand because you will sink into it. Remember what that feels like; you will need to know how to walk in different types of footing.

Now you can try walking a line! Set up two jumps in a straight line, some multiple of twelve feet apart. The line below is 36 feet long.

Your average horse's stride in the jumper ring is twelve feet, which corresponds to four of your steps. Your take-off and landing will each take up about six feet for a combined total of twelve feet. This means that when you are faced with a 36-foot line, your horse should take two strides between the jumps.

In order to walk the line, you should stand in the center of the first jump with your heel directly underneath it. Now walk forward, using your three-foot stride, and count how many steps you get between the jumps, finishing with your heel directly underneath the second jump. Different methods of keeping track of the steps work for different riders. Some like to count how many steps they have taken and then do the math at the end of the line. I, personally, count with my fingers by sticking one finger out for every four steps that I take. At the end of the line, I fold one finger back down to account for the combined take-off and landing distance and the number of fingers that I have left sticking out corresponds to the number of strides that I should put in the line.

Always remember to take that take-off/landing distance away from your count. If you reach the end of the line and you have to put an extra step in to get your heel right under that second jump, the line will ride forward. If you reach the end of the line before finishing a twelve-foot set, the line will ride short.

You don't have to walk from the center of each jump, but you do need to be consistent in where you walk from. Unless you plan on angling a line, you cannot count accurately by walking from the center of the first jump to the right side of the second jump. If you start walking on one end of the first jump, walk to that same spot on the second jump.

This is something that you will need to practice a lot at home before going to a horse show because you won't be able to use tape markers or a measuring tape at the show!

Jumper Tack: Martingales

2010-04-01T00:10:00.000-04:00

The most commonly-seen martingale in the jumper ring is the running martingale. Contrary to what some riders might believe, the standing martingale is not illegal in the jumper ring; it is simply restricted to use the lower heights only.

The standing martingale, which I covered in an earlier post about hunter tack, attaches to the bottom of a regular cavesson noseband to keep the horse from raising its head higher than a certain point.

The running martingale, on the other hand, has a forked strap that connects to the neck strap. The undivided end attaches to the girth while the forked end attaches to the reins. Each of the forked straps ends in a metal ring for the reins to pass through. When the horse raises its head too high, the martingale exerts downward pressure on the reins.

The running martingale is used so much in the jumper ring because it allows the horse much more freedom of movement than does the standing martingale. Because the standing martingale is fixed, there is never any additional give if the horse needs it. Because the running martingale has movement along the reins and is attached to the reins, which also have movement, it is far less restricting. If the horse needs to stretch out over a big jump or requires its head to recover from a stumble, it's easy to give the reins away and allow the horse that freedom.

To use a running martingale, slip the neck strap over your horse's head and attach the martingale to the girth. Unbuckle your reins (at the rider end, not the bit end) and thread one side through one ring, then thread the other side through the other ring before re-buckling the reins.

How tight should the martingale be? That depends, of course, on your horse, but a general rule is to have it long enough that you can pull the straps up to the throatlatch area when the martingale is on.

Make sure that the neck strap is adjusted snugly enough not to hang low and flop around, but not so tightly that the horse will have trouble flexing its neck with it on.

Also be careful not to use a running martingale if you don't have stoppers on your reins. Stoppers prevent the martingale rings from getting caught on the buckles near the bit.

So which martingales are you allowed to use when? I'll let the EC rules speak for themselves:

ARTICLE G502 TACK AND EQUIPMENT
1. ... Standing martingales [...] will be permitted in jumper classes where the height of the fences does not exceed 1.15m.
[...]
4. In the competition arena:
[...]
b) If running martingales are used, they must be unrestricted (For use of
standing martingales, see Article G502.1).

Memorizing Hunter Courses

2010-03-30T23:39:00.000-04:00

Hunter jumps may not have numbers on them, but the courses are not as difficult to memorize as you would think. A well-designed hunter course has an easy flow to it, and once you know what the typical course design is like, you should be able to find your way around almost any hunter course from knowing the first jump alone!

Most hunter courses start with a single vertical on the inside track. Occasionally, the single vertical will be placed on a diagonal, but the flow following the jump will be the same.

After the first jump, the course will go to either an outside line (or single oxer) or a diagonal line (or single oxer). Generally, a diagonal will follow an outside and an outside will follow a diagonal. The best part? Usually, there will only be one line of jumps to take from the proper direction after coming around the end of the ring!

One course might be inside, diagonal, outside, diagonal, outside. Another might be inside, outside, diagonal, outside, diagonal.

How should you memorize the course in the quickest, easiest way? Remember the first jump and the last jump. That's it! You should always run through the rest of the course with a ground person before you enter the ring, just to make sure that it follows the usual formula, but it's really no more complicated than that. Even if the course includes a broken line or an in-and-out, it will still follow roughly the same track!

As you go around the course, make sure that you don't jump anything backwards. Check that there's a nice ground line in front of everything and you should be good to go (since hunter jumps have such large ground lines, the back of most jumps will have an almost false ground line since it is pulled out so far in front). Keep going around the course until you've gone over that last jump that you memorized!

How To Befriend the Show Office Staff

2010-03-29T22:44:00.000-04:00

There is a very good reason why you should be nice to the show office staff, besides basic politeness. If you try to make their lives easier, chances are that they will try to make yours easier, too. They can do everything from helping you do your adds more quickly, to contacting others at the horse show for you, to taking your word for it when corrections need to be done to your bill at the end of the show.

So what can you do to put yourself in their good books?

Be polite and friendly - You might be having a bad day, but put on a smile and say 'please' and 'thank you' when you're in the show office. In a sea of rushed and stressed-out competitors, a friendly face is a welcome sight.
Be patient - There can be a lot of waiting around at the busier times of the day, and pushing ahead in the line or getting upset about having to wait won't do anyone any good.
Have your memberships completed before the horse show - Doing it through the office makes for extra work for the office staff.
Get your entries in on time - There's a reason for the entry deadline, and sending your entries in late produces more unexpected work right before the show than they had planned for.
Provide all of the necessary paperwork (passports, memberships, Coggins test, etc.) and fill out your entries and stall order forms completely - There is a reason why everything is asked for!
Be ready to pay at any time - Most shows require either payment up front or an open cheque before your numbers will be issued. Don't make the office staff's lives difficult by forgetting your cheque and expecting for them to make an exception for you (never expect to be given special treatment; just appreciate it when you are!).
Have all of the necessary information with you to do entries - If you don't know show names or exhibitor numbers, how will they? Don't make them search for information that you should already know.
Try to do your entries, bill payments and hay/shavings orders at quiet times. The show office is usually busiest at the end of the afternoon, as the classes are finishing or finished. On the last day, try to pay your bill in the morning if you don't have any afternoon classes.

Above all, be understanding. The office staff deal with hundreds of people every day and they do their best to get everything done efficiently and accurately. Mistakes are bound to happen and when they do, remember that the staff are only human. Most of us wouldn't last five minutes in their shoes when the office is at its busiest!

Memorizing Jumper Courses

2010-03-28T21:59:00.000-04:00

When you're new to the jumper ring, you might be worried about memorizing the courses. Jumper classes usually take place in a large ring with at least ten numbered jumps, and the technical nature of the courses means that there will be a lot of different turns to get to those jumps. Thankfully, memorizing a jumper course isn't as difficult as it looks as long as you prepare yourself for it.

First, check the course diagrams first thing in the morning, before the first class starts. Check the course diagrams to see if any of the classes are using the same course. If your class shares a course with an earlier class, watch as many riders as you can go in that earlier class. This will put the flow of the course in your mind, help you memorize the striding as you subconsciously keep track of it in each line, and it will show you which options work best for the different horses and riders. You can even walk the course with the riders from the earlier class, but keep in mind that the course designer might tweak the course in between the classes so you might be in for a surprise if you don't walk it again with your own class!

While the course is being set or adjusted for your class, take a good look at the course diagram (it will be posted near the in-gate). Remember where the first jump is so that you will know where to start your walk, as well as where the last jump is so that you don't accidentally end your course walk too early, thinking you have reached the last jump when it fact you have not (it has happened!). As you look at the diagram, get a feel for the flow of the course. Does the course designer tend to use a lot of diagonal lines, broken lines, or rollback turns? Most course designers have their own easily recognizable style, and knowing what that style is will help you remember what to do in the ring.

When the ring is opened for the walk, go in immediately and start planning your round. Don't forget to think about how you will enter the ring and get to your first jump. Walk the entire course from start to finish, determining how many strides to put in each line and where to turn to each jump. Make sure that you walk every inch of that course, because you will remember the track that you walked when you're in the ring on your horse. Walking each line and turn will help you remember what to do.

Once you've walked the entire course, walk it again (that's why you should start your walk as soon as the ring is open!). This second walk will solidify the track in your mind, making it much easier to remember. It will also give you a chance to test yourself on the striding since you can try to remember the number and then walk it to confirm. If the ring is closed while you're still doing your second walk, don't panic. Leave the ring immediately and then continue that second walk in your mind.

Between walking the course and competing, go through the course in your head as many times as you can. Imagine riding each jump in the entire course. If you can go through the whole course in your mind without looking at the real one, you're ready to go.

If you have prepared correctly, the course should come naturally to you once you're on course since you've already been through it so many times and you shouldn't have to think too much about it. The less you have to worry, the better you can ride!

Elimination For Disobediences

2010-03-28T00:00:00.002-04:00

There are several different ways of getting eliminated from your class at the horse show, all of which are described in the rule book. Today we will talk about eliminations resulting from multiple disobediences.

In both the hunter ring and the jumper ring, horses are eliminated after their second disobedience. The jumper rule, however, goes into much further detail.

Hunters

The EC rule for multiple disobediences in the hunter ring is simply:

ARTICLE G407

6. Second cumulative refusal, runout or bolting on course results in elimination. When a horse avoids an obstacle he is supposed to jump, it constitutes a refusal or runout. The horse must be brought back and jumped over the obstacle or he will be eliminated.

This just says that if your horse has refused or run out once, you must come back and jump that obstacle successfully before continuing around the course. After a second refusal or runout anywhere on course, you are eliminated.

Jumpers

Disobediences are defined as:

FEI ARTICLE 219 DISOBEDIENCES

1. The following are considered as disobediences and are penalized as such (236 and 239):

1.1. a refusal;

1.2. a run-out;

1.3. a resistance;

1.4. a more or less regular circle or group of circles no matter where they occur on the course or for whatever reason. It is also a disobedience to circle around the last obstacle jumped unless the track of the course so requires.

1.4 basically means that you cannot cross your path between two jumps without it counting as a disobedience.

If you are unsure of what constitutes a refusal, run-out or resistance, they are defined in FEI Articles 221, 222 and 223, available here.

Here is the EC rule regarding elimination in Table A and Table C competitions:

FEI ARTICLE 236 TABLE A
1. Faults are penalized in penalty points or by elimination according to the tables set out in this Chapter.
First disobedience - 4 penalties
Second disobedience or other infringement laid down under Article 240 - Elimination

FEI ARTICLE 239 TABLE C
2. Penalties under Table C
First disobedience - None
First disobedience, with a knock down and/or displacing of an obstacle - time correction 6 seconds
Second disobedience or other infringement laid down under article 240 or both - Elimination

Once you have been eliminated in the jumper ring, you have the right to jump a courtesy fence according to the following rule:

FEI ARTICLE 240 ELIMINATIONS
2. The competitor has the right to jump one single obstacle, after retiring or after being eliminated, providing that obstacle is part of the course of the current competition. This however does not apply to elimination resulting from a fall.

You must leave the arena without delay after being eliminated, so if you choose to use your courtesy jump, you should select it carefully. It should ideally be located on your way back to the ingate so that you can jump it on your way out without circling back. Never take any jump backwards and choose a jump that you have already taken successfully in order to give yourself a better chance at avoiding another refusal (this is especially important because you have only one shot at your courtesy fence).

Tent Stalls: Rolling Up The Flaps

2010-03-27T00:50:00.001-04:00

If you are stabled in a tent, chances are you that will need to roll up the flaps at least once during the show. Even if it doesn't rain or get cold, the tents will often be put up with the flaps hanging down and are left that way until you arrive.

In order to put the flaps up, you will need something to stand on. Mounting blocks work very well but a shavings bag or hay bale works if that's all you have.

Stand inside the tent and look up at the edge. You should see something like this (I'm not showing the flap here), with a rope running along the inside edge of the tent between the end of the roof and the decorative border:

Adding in the flap, you will see that it is attached to the rope by a series of plastic clips. Depending on the age of the flap, there might be lots of clips or there might be many that are broken or missing. The fewer clips you have, the more difficult it will be to neatly roll the flaps up.

Now, to roll up the flap, stand on the mounting block inside the tent, almost right under the rope. Unclip the clip that is closest to you (it is easier to clip onto the rope than it is to unclip. To unclip, you will need to push on the little finger and jiggle it away from the rope. To clip it back on, all you need to do is push the finger side against the rope).

Next, start to roll the flap up towards you, starting from the bottom and keeping that clip at the top accessible and centered. This might be difficult if the flap is new and thick or if you have a lot of clips fastened to the rope along the top. If you're having trouble, unclip the neighbouring clips, too. Your flaps won't be rolled as tightly, but it will still work.

Once you have it rolled all the way to the top, flip the roll around 360 degrees and clip it back onto the rope. This will keep it rolled up!

Now move one or two fastened clips down the flap and repeat. This method works because you are alternating twisting one way (the original) and then the other (what we're doing here), so make sure that you always leave a clip or two between your rolls (otherwise when you flip the next one, it will just rotate a section of the flap and lose the tight fold).

To bring the flaps back down, just go along the flap and unclip those twisted sections. They will unroll themselves and you can then clip back on to the rope or just leave those clips hanging if it doesn't sag too much.

Amateur Status

2010-03-25T23:25:00.000-04:00

Possessing an amateur card will allow you to compete in divisions that are restricted to amateur riders (those divisions usually have 'amateur' in the name). If you are an adult, not having your amateur status will force you to compete in the open divisions against the pros. EC will take your word for it that you are an amateur once you have signed the declaration unless someone complains.

Juniors are simply juniors and are not classified as amateurs or professionals.

Judges, course designers, stewards, grooms, etc. can all qualify as amateurs provided they meet the criteria. It does not matter that you are getting paid to do something with horses - it matters what you are getting paid for doing.

In Canada, you must pay an extra $10 when renewing your Equine Canada membership in order to receive an amateur card. The amateur card is not really a card, but a ticked box on your EC membership card.

Who qualifies as an amateur? Let's check the EC rules:

ARTICLE G108 AMATEUR STATUS

1. All seniors competing in amateur classes at EC-sanctioned competitions must possess a current EC amateur card, which is purchased annually at the price listed in the EC Schedule of Fees. Competitors in FEI-sanctioned competitions must comply with the FEI definition of amateur.

2. A person competing in EC amateur classes must hold a valid EC senior sport license, have a current amateur card and adhere to the following guidelines:

a) Pilot Project: An EC amateur may hold an EC Instructor Beginner Certificate and teach within the context of the Instructor Beginner Certificate.

b) An EC amateur may accept remuneration for instruction of or coaching of the disabled.

c) An EC amateur may not accept remuneration for training a horse or for showing a horse at any EC-sanctioned competition. See Glossary for definition of “Remuneration”.

d) An EC amateur may not accept remuneration for coaching any person to ride or drive a horse, including riding or driving clinics and seminars.

e) An EC amateur may not train or show a horse, or instruct a rider or driver, when remuneration for this activity will be given to a corporation or farm which he or she, or his or her family, owns or controls.

f) An EC amateur may not act as an agent nor accept commissions for the sale, purchase and/or lease of a horse.

g) EC Amateurs may not use their name, photograph or any form of a personal association as a horse person in connection with any advertisement or article sold without the approval and signature of EC (e.g. product endorsement or advertisement of their activity as a coach).

h) An EC amateur may not enter into any form of sponsorship agreement that is in conflict with the provisions of this article.

See division rules for further information governing amateur status within divisions.

3. Persons who have not engaged in any of the activities in Article G108.2 (ag) during the preceding two (2) calendar years may request reinstatement as amateur competitors. Such requests must be sent in writing to EC.

4. Application for Equine Canada Amateur Status:

a) Amateur status is issued by EC.

b) For EC members, certification of amateur status is issued annually on EC sport license cards.

c) All persons wishing EC amateur status must complete and sign the amateur declaration, which is on the sport license application/renewal form, affirming their eligibility.

d) Eligible amateurs who are not members of EC may receive amateur status issued by EC upon payment of the fee as listed in the current EC fee schedule.

In order to teach lessons or coach in exchange for remuneration and still compete as an amateur, you must possess an EC Instructor Beginner Certificate (teaching beginners for pay without the certificate negates your amateur status) or teach only the disabled.

You may never train or compete on a horse and receive remuneration for it.

If someone else gets paid when you coach, train or show, you are not an amateur.

You may profit from buying and selling your own horses, but you may not profit from finding or selling anyone else's horses.

You may not endorse any products unless you are given permission by EC. Sponsorship of the rider is prohibited if the rider is profiting from showing.

In order to regain your amateur status after you have given it up for any of the above reasons, you must not have participated in any of those activities for a full two calendar years.

For clarity, here is the definition of remuneration from the EC rules:

REMUNERATION

1. For the purposes of these rules, remuneration is defined as any payment, either in cash or in kind, with the exception of gifts of token value.

2. Remuneration does NOT include:

a) payment made to any competition official

b) reimbursement for expenses without profit

c) winnings paid to a horse’s owner

If you do not believe that one of your fellow competitors is really an amateur and you wish to do something about it, you must follow the EC rules. Check out chapter 12 for the (lengthy) Dispute Resolution Policy.

7. If the status of an EC certified amateur is challenged, such challenge is subject to EC rules regarding official complaints. See Chapter A12, Dispute Resolution Policy for EC-sanctioned Competitions.

Tent Stalls: Flaps in the Rain

2010-03-25T00:15:00.002-04:00

Tents stalls require lots of work when the weather changes. Today I will go through what to do when it starts to rain, assuming that you are starting with the flaps hanging straight down. In a future post, I will explain how to roll and unroll the flaps.

First, let's set out some terms to use. I have labelled the photo on the right, showing tent stabling with the flaps rolled up in order to show all of the supports, with two terms.

When I say 'vertical support', I am referring to the upright wooden support at the edge of the tent that supports it from below.

When I say 'angled support', I am referring to the rope or woven strap that keeps the tent taut.

When the flaps are hanging straight down, like in the drawing above, they should hang between the vertical supports and the angled supports. If they are hung to the inside (towards the stalls) of the vertical supports, you will not be able to pull them out away from the stalls in the rain.

This drawing shows what you should do to the flaps when it's raining. If the flaps are not brand new, there should be small holes located along the bottom edge of the flap (the flaps don't come with them, so they have to be cut into new flaps). Locate the hole closest to each angled strap and pass a piece of baling twine through that hole. Pull the flap out towards the angled support and use the baling twine to tie the flap to the support (if there is a loop near the bottom of the support, passing the baling twine through that loop will make it more secure). Repeat for each support along the length of the flap.

Tying the flaps out allows the rainwater to run away from the stalls and it also keeps the flaps from flapping noisily against the stalls in the wind.

Complete your rainproofing by digging trenches under the flaps to keep heavy rain from flooding back into your stalls.

Adding and Scratching

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When you enter a class that was not originally indicated on your entry form, it is called an add. When you remove yourself from any class, it is referred to as a scratch. There are two ways to do your adds and scratches at the horse show: the add/scratch sheet and the trainer add form.

The add/scratch sheet

Somewhere in the show office, you should find a pad of copy paper that will probably have the title 'Add/Scratch Form' written on it. It is a very short form, usually divided into an add column and a scratch column, with about five fields: the date, the horse's name, the horse's number, the rider's name and the class number.

The date is on there to determine whether or not it will be charged a late entry fee or a scratch fee (it's not really important to fill that field out if you will be handing it directly to a secretary).

The horse's name and number are obviously important in identifying the horse. Make sure that you know the horse's number before entering the office in order to make life easier for the office staff.

The rider's name is important if you want to make sure that the correct rider is announced and credited with any results. It's also very important if you are entering any equitation classes.

The class number is, of course, one of the most important parts! The office should have extra copies of the show schedule available that you can check to find the correct class number.

Once you're done filling the form in and you have signed it, hand it to the show secretary. If you are adding or scratching the day of the class, you will be handed back a copy of the add/scratch form to bring to the ingate.

You will usually be charged an extra fee if you add or scratch the day of the class. If you add or scratch before the office closes the day before your class, however, you won't be charged any more than the class fee.

The trainer form

If you are adding or scratching multiple horses, individual add forms can be time-consuming. In such a case, ask the secretary if it would be possible to print off a trainer add form for you. These forms list all of the horses that are at the show with a particular trainer, complete with their show numbers and which classes they are already entered in. All that you will need to do to add or scratch is write the class number in the proper column (add or scratch) beside the correct rider's name (all of the riders from the original entry form should be listed). Sign it, hand it to the secretary and you're done!

Filling Out Your Entry Form

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A big entry form can be a bit intimidating at first if you aren't used to filling them out. With everything packed onto a single page, fitting all of the required information in is often challenging.

Let's take a look at a typical entry form and then go through how to fill it out.

(click on the photo to enlarge)

The first field will be about your horse. It's very important to fill this out completely, especially if a passport number is asked for, so that your results will be attributed correctly.

Following that, you should find a section about the horse's owner. Make sure to fill this out fully, too, because the owner needs to have certain memberships in order for the horse to compete and you don't want to waste the office's time by making them check for themselves. The spaces will be tiny so make sure that you print very clearly and with a fine pen!

You should also see a section about your trainer. This is important to fill out because entries will generally be grouped by stable so that when it comes to collecting the horses' numbers and splitting stabling/hay/shavings fees, things can be done quickly and easily. It will also make doing your daily entries easier because shows will often print out a 'trainer add form' that lists all of the horses entered under that trainer.

Next, you should see a section with room for multiple riders. It doesn't really matter which rider you put first if you're doing multiples as long as you are consistent with the numbering throughout the form. Be sure to fill out the membership numbers here, too, so that it's clear to the office that your riders are able to compete. Date of birth is not really necessary for those who are not entering age-restricted classes.

There will always be a waiver for you to sign at the end of the entry form - don't forget to sign it!

Different shows have different ways of putting the different classes on the entry form. Some forms will require you to put a mark beside the classes but most often, you will need to circle the numbers of the classes that you would like to enter. Beside the class, write the number of the rider that will be doing that class. At some shows, you can write a 'T' if the trainer is riding.

It isn't necessary to add up the fees before sending in the form since the office will do that themselves and you are likely to add on extra fees during the show, anyway. The fee section is not the appropriate place to reserve a stall or a camper spot; that should be done on a stall request form.

Now, why should you need to give the horse show your address? It actually benefits you to give it to them because many shows will put that address into a database and then send you their future prize lists in the mail.

If you aren't sure which classes you would like to compete in, you can leave that section of the entry form blank and it will be accepted, provided you enter the rest of the information in full. Once you are at the horse show you can enter your classes by filling out an add/scratch form the day before you compete.

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